I love white, off-white and cream pants for women (and men for that matter), but unless they are jeans, they are often see-through, with the pockets and seams visible through the fabric. Is there a secret to wearing them so this is less of an issue? Am I looking in the wrong places? — Sharon, Harrisburg, Pa.
In the spring, a woman’s fancy turns lightly to thoughts of … white pants. And not just because of that old saw about wearing white between Memorial Day and Labor Day. (Honestly, no one pays attention to that any more.) When it gets warmer, we naturally gravitate to lighter colors.
They absorb less heat, for one, and they seem more reflective of the nature around us: clouds, dandelion fluff, surf … And there is something about the idea of wearing white pants under a bright sun that taps into our collective Cape Cod-summer-on-the-Med leisure-time fantasies. The vibe is very Jackie Kennedy on the beach or “The Talented Mr. Ripley.”
But that brings with it problems of its own. Because warmer temperatures inspire not just lighter shades but lighter fabrics, and said fabrics tend to be thinner. Think linen, gauze, gazar, silk and even sheerer cottons. And the combination of those fabrics and various shades of white equals … see-through.
See through to the pockets dangling on each leg. See through to your underwear. See through in maybe embarrassing and unintended ways.
What’s the answer?
I asked Tonne Goodman, Vogue’s sustainability editor, who has made white pants something of a signature, what she would suggest. “If the pockets show through, the only true solution is to cut them out,” she said. “Not ideal, of course. Some pants have the courtesy of using nude fabric for the pocket, and that works reasonably well — but be careful how much you stuff in that pocket.”
The only real answer, she said, “is to choose pants made of heavier fabric. Or as I do, stick to denim.”
Goodman favors straight-leg Levi’s 501s, which she buys in bulk from the men’s section. Another proponent of this look is Ines de la Fressange, the famously chic former face of Chanel and France. Her collaboration with Uniqlo often included white pants, which can still be found on resale sites like Poshmark.
But even white denim, the most opaque of the white semi-summery fabrics, can end up being somewhat transparent — especially if you opt for the lightest weight available. (Denim generally comes in three weights, measured per square yard — light, or 12 ounces; mid, or 16.5 ounces; and heavy, or 25 ounces.)
Besides, there are places denim does not always belong. Daniella Kallmeyer, the designer of Kallmeyer and a nominee for last year’s CFDA women’s wear designer of the year award, has four different styles of white pants in her collection. She suggested that if you want something dressier or lighter, look for viscose. It is “usually more opaque, and sometimes more durable, than a tropical wool,” she said.
“Different skin tones and garment construction will almost always affect sheerness in certain fabrics,” Kallmeyer continued, so she suggested just leaning into the problem.
“Don’t be afraid of well-constructed summer pants with some internal visibility,” she said. “Wear seamless undergarments that closely match your skin tone.” It is essential your undies match your body, not your clothes. “And look for pleated or wide-leg trousers. Try to avoid very fitted pants, especially those with pockets, not only for sheerness but also style.”
You could always go to a tailor and add a lining, of course, but perhaps a more effective hack comes courtesy of Simon Porte Jacquemus’s grandmother, Liline, the face of his brand.
She recently attended the Met Gala with her grandson, both of them wearing all-white trouser suits. Her approach: layers. She wore light white pants with a light white top under an equally light white jacket under a sheer white coat. It turns out that sheer plus sheer plus sheer adds up to opaque. That’s actually a solution.
Your Style Questions, Answered
Every week on Open Thread, Vanessa will answer a reader’s fashion-related question, which you can send to her anytime via email or X. Questions are edited and condensed.
Vanessa Friedman has been the fashion director and chief fashion critic for The Times since 2014.
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