For decades, wearing pantyhose was considered hopelessly unfashionable, but now, sheer hose, and patterned and embellished tights, are back in style in a big way. However, to borrow from former NFL player Michael Irving, we’re losing recipes. The tips and tricks for maintaining hosiery that used to be passed down by family and friends are in danger of being lost to time and ever-changing fashion trends.
“Many people are wearing sheer hosiery now for the first time, and there is a steep learning curve in caring for this super strong yet super delicate yarn,” says Katie Thomas, a vintage lingerie expert and designer. Here, hosiery experts attempt to flatten that steep learning curve by sharing everything you could possibly need to know about caring for finespun legwear.
Hand-laundering hosiery is ideal
Meg Gallagher, a personal stylist based in Los Angeles, says that when it comes to washing her hosiery, she avoids machines “at all cost.” Gallagher isn’t alone: The experts we spoke to said, emphatically, that washing hosiery by hand is best. “Although most modern hosiery can typically withstand a delicate machine wash inside a lingerie bag, hand-washing is the best way to keep hosiery looking beautiful for longer,” says Kymberley Kirkby, a content manager and historical researcher at The Seamstress of Bloomsbury.
“You might think that putting sheer hosiery in a lingerie bag in the washing machine would work,” Thomas says, “but it is very hit and miss, and you’re likely to end up with a spaghettilike mess which is very difficult to untangle.”
Make it a spa day for your hose
Washing hosiery by hand may sound like a drag, but turning it into a ritual elevates the experience. “Hand-washing only takes a few minutes,” Thomas says. “I have a Sunday ritual when I wash all my hosiery in one lot. If you’re feeling luxe, you could use the shower gel version of your signature perfume to make the event a little less chore-like.”
Wash light to dark
When washing several pairs of pantyhose or tights in one go, Thomas says to start with the lightest colored pairs and move on to the darker ones using the same water. Doing so will prevent dye transfer from dark hose onto lighter ones.
Use the gentlest of touches when hand-washing
“Gently swish the hosiery in the water rather than rubbing or scrubbing,” Kirkby says. “Rinse carefully in clean water and never wring them out.” Other things to avoid include hot water, harsh detergents and fabric softeners, which can weaken the elasticity and durability of the fibers.
Machine washing can work. Here’s how.
Laundering tights and sturdier nylons in the machine is fine, generally speaking, but sheerer hose should not go in the machine to prevent damage. “It’s fine to machine wash opaque tights,” Thomas says, “but anything 50 denier or above, finer hosiery needs more care.” (Denier refers to the thickness of the yarn used to make hosiery; 5 denier is the sheerest, 15 denier is the most common sheerness and anything over 50 denier is considered opaque. To find the denier, look for the “D” symbol on the packaging and/or tag followed by a number — that’s the denier.) When washing tights in the machine, place them in a protective mesh washing bag, use cold water and a gentle cycle, and do not launder bulky, heavy or embellished items in the same load.
Take off your jewels
“Avoid wearing any rings or bracelets when washing your hosiery, as these can easily catch and cause snags and tears,” Kirkby says.
Dish soap is the best stain remover
Stains are common and tend to form on the feet and crotch areas of hosiery. Gallagher’s secret weapon is dish soap. “I use it on every stain, every fabric,” she says. “Add a touch of dish soap and massage until the stain removes.” Dish soap is both powerful and gentle, making it a safer alternative for treating stains than commercial formulas, which can be too harsh. “Tempting as it may be,” Kirkby says, “avoid hot water and stain removers, as these will damage the hosiery further.”
Dry them the right way
Damage often occurs, Thomas says, because of improper drying techniques. “I always hang my hosiery up by the toes,” she says, using an inexpensive lingerie dryer with clips. “Don’t dry [hosiery] over your bath rack or over radiators as this will be likely to cause snags.” To speed drying time, “gently press away any excess water and roll the hosiery in a clean towel to absorb any remaining moisture, then leave them to air-dry on a flat surface or on a clothesline,” Kirkby says. Avoid direct heat such as tumble dryers, radiators and sunlight, which shrink hosiery and/or weaken the fibers.
Once dry, roll or fold hose up loosely
“Make sure that your hosiery is completely dry before putting it away to avoid any mildew,” Kirkby says. “Don’t ball up or tie them. Instead, gently fold or loosely roll them up.” To prevent stretching, Gallagher says, “I roll my hosiery into rosettes like my mom taught me.”
Store hosiery properly to protect it when not in use
When it comes to storing hosiery, Thomas says the size of your collection and personal preference will dictate your approach. “The main thing is not to throw your carefully laundered hosiery loose into your lingerie drawer,” she advises. Also, don’t store hosiery near anything that can snag, such as items with zippers, hooks, sharp edges or Velcro. Thomas recommends using a pillowcase to store snag-prone legwear because the inner edges are smooth, won’t cause any damage and “everyone has one.” For a more elevated storage solution, she suggests using a small satin drawstring bag, vintage hosiery bags, a handkerchief bag or a pajama case.
Prevent runs and snags
The best way to extend the life of hosiery is with careful handling, washing and storage. “Damage is more likely to happen on either side of washing and wearing,” Thomas says. “Never throw your worn hosiery into your main laundry basket. It’s likely to get hitched by the basket or other items of clothing.” She recommends keeping a separate bag within the basket, such as a pillowcase, for hosiery.
Use the old clear nail polish or hair spray trick for runs
Runs, runners, ladders — whatever you call them, they signal the death of a pair of pantyhose, but short-term fixes are an option. “Repairing hosiery once it’s run or snagged is more like damage control,” Gallagher says. “You can stop a run with nail polish by dabbing the top and bottom of the run, and it will get you through the night.” If you don’t have nail polish, “a touch of strong-hold hair spray has the same effect,” Kirkby says.
To strengthen the fibers, make tightsicles
Here’s an oddball trick for extending the lifespan of hosiery: “When you invest in new hosiery,” Kirkby says, “dampen them with cool water before popping them in a plastic bag and putting them in the freezer. After a night, take them out and let them defrost at room temperature, then dry them thoroughly.” Freezing strengthens the fibers, helping the hosiery last longer.
How often to wash tights and pantyhose
“It goes without saying that hosiery should be washed after every wear,” Thomas says. It may go without saying, but it’s worth saying anyway.
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