India still surprises me, and I was born and raised here.
I’ve spent years exploring the country, from the palaces in Rajasthan to the backwaters of Kerala, and almost every trip turns up something I didn’t expect.
Friends, family, and plenty of strangers online ask me the same question: “What’s really worth seeing in India?”
It’s a big question for a country this size, and not every famous stop deserves a spot on a short itinerary. Some places have stayed with me for years, whereas others I was happy to see once and move on from.
Here are the three I’d suggest to any first-time visitor, and the two I’d skip.
The Taj Mahal is one of the New Seven Wonders of the World, and it’s a must-see.
If you only have time for one monument in India, make it the Taj Mahal.
Commissioned by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his wife, Mumtaz Mahal, the white-marble mausoleum has become one of the world’s most enduring symbols of love.
Nearly four centuries after construction began, its extraordinary symmetry, intricate stonework, and sweeping gardens remain as impressive as its reputation suggests.
Just plan strategically to make the most of your visit. Arriving at the East or West Gate before sunrise can help you avoid the worst crowds and summer heat. Keep in mind that the Taj is closed on Fridays, too.
Plenty of visitors take their photos and leave, but don’t make that mistake. I recommend crossing the Yamuna River to Mehtab Bagh, a Mughal garden directly opposite the monument.
Entry costs 300 Indian rupees, or a little over $3, for foreign visitors, and it’s one of the few spots where you can see the Taj with an open sky and fewer people. It’s also open on Fridays, when the Taj itself is closed.
Varanasi is my favorite place in India, and the evening Ganga Aarti is the best way to see why.
Varanasi sits on the Ganges, the river Hindus consider sacred, and it’s often described as one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. Its ghats, the stepped embankments that lead down to the water, are the heart of the city — there are more than 80 of them.
A can’t-miss experience is the nightly Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat. Priests swing towering brass lamps in unison as bells and chants build around them, and the flames flicker on the dark water. I get goosebumps every time.
The ceremony is free, lasts for about 45 minutes, and begins shortly after sunset, typically between about 5:30 and 7 p.m., depending on the season.
If you’d rather watch from the steps, arrive 30 to 45 minutes early, since the ghat fills up long before it starts. On the ghat, you’ll also come across kids with baskets of tilak, a mark of sandalwood paste or vermillion applied to the forehead.
You can let them put one on you and give a small tip if you wish, though it’s not necessary. If you don’t want one, a polite “no” is enough.
Kerala’s backwaters are worth the trip, but head north for the calm.
Kerala’s backwaters are a network of lagoons, lakes, and canals running parallel to the Arabian Sea coast. The classic way to see them is from a kettuvallam, a traditional rice barge converted into a houseboat.
In my opinion, an overnight stay aboard — where you’ll drift past villages and wildlife — is one of the best things to do in the state. Short on time? A day cruise is a good alternative.
Most people choose to do this in Alappuzha (also known as Alleppey), a city in Kerala south of Kochi. Alleppey is worth seeing, but the canals are so full of boats that it can feel like rush hour on water.
For a quieter alternative, head up to Valiyaparamba in Kasaragod, Kerala’s northernmost district. This backwater stretch is lined with mangroves and coconut groves, and home to around 90 species of birds, so bring binoculars.
To explore them, book a houseboat from the Kottappuram terminal near Nileshwar, the main gateway to these backwaters. Houseboats can range from about ₹8,000 a night for a basic boat to well over ₹25,000 for a luxury one, and meals cooked by an onboard chef are usually included.
October through March is the best time to go, and December and January are the busiest, so I suggest booking ahead.
Meanwhile, I probably wouldn’t go inside the Lotus Temple again.
The Lotus Temple in New Delhi is genuinely beautiful, especially if you like modern architecture.
It belongs to the Baha’i faith, but welcomes visitors of any religion. Twenty-seven marble-covered petals form a half-open lotus, surrounded by nine pools, and it’s a striking sight.
However, I was a little underwhelmed by the inside. On a Saturday, I waited 30 to 35 minutes in line, then spent about five minutes in the prayer hall.
It’s a quiet, plain space where visitors mostly sit in silence and can’t take photos. Without any statues, idols, or religious images, there wasn’t much to look at, and the wait didn’t feel worth it to me.
That said, entry is free. The gardens and pools are the best part, so I’d spend my time there and skip the line.
The Gateway of India is an impressive landmark, but not worth the crowds.
Most visitors to Mumbai stop by the Gateway of India, and it’s easy to see why. The yellow basalt arch, completed in 1924 to commemorate the 1911 visit of King George V and Queen Mary, is undeniably striking — and free to visit.
The problem is that the visit rarely amounts to much beyond a nice photo op. Even getting a good photo can be frustrating, too, with crowds frequently wandering into the frame.
My advice? Instead of visiting, head to the jetty beside the monument and catch a ferry to Elephanta Island. The roughly hourlong boat ride takes you to a UNESCO-listed complex of rock-cut caves featuring remarkable sculptures dedicated to the Hindu deity Shiva.
I’d much rather spend a morning exploring Elephanta’s ancient temples and enjoying the journey across the harbor than linger at the Gateway of India.
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