Many travelers flock to New England destinations like Boston, Bar Harbor, and Newport for a weekend getaway.
But as a Massachusetts resident who’s spent my entire life living in and exploring New England, I’ve found myself returning to Portsmouth, New Hampshire, instead.
To me, it offers the same coastal charm as its more popular neighbors but with a more laid-back atmosphere.
Plus, I think it’s one of the most underrated New England getaways because it has a little something for everyone — from independent boutiques, craft breweries, and live music to riverfront parks and nearby beaches.
There are lots of great accommodations in town.
I’ve visited Portsmouth nearly a dozen times now, staying at both larger chains and boutique properties. I’ve never once had a negative experience — even during the peak season when amenities are crowded and staff are stretched thin.
In my experience, the rates tend to be more affordable than they are in many other coastal New England destinations, too.
Of all the accommodations I’ve experienced, the AC Hotel Downtown/Waterfront is where I keep returning again and again — and not only because of the sleek, modern accommodations.
It’s also conveniently located within walking distance of many of the shops and restaurants, and the rooftop restaurant and bar offers sweeping views of the Piscataqua River — not to mention a killer espresso martini and an epic weekend brunch.
The dining scene in Portsmouth is impressive.
Despite its small size, I think Portsmouth has become one of New England’s best food destinations, attracting James-Beard-nominated chefs and former contestants from shows like “Chopped.”
When I’m in town, I always stop at Moxy for eclectic small plates, Surf for creative sushi rolls with a waterfront view, and Toscana Chophouse for a perfectly cooked filet.
Row 34 is also a must — not only for the rotating selection of local oysters and other raw bar delights, but also for the cornbread, served piping hot in a cast-iron skillet with a generous heap of maple butter.
There’s no shortage of historic sites and homes.
Portsmouth was settled by colonists in 1623, and its Historic District contains approximately 1,200 buildings.
One of my favorites is the indoor-outdoor Strawbery Banke, which is a living museum that depicts local life from the Indigenous people to today.
I also like visiting Albacore Park to learn about local maritime history and tour a research submarine that was used from 1953 to 1972.
Plus, don’t miss the Moffatt-Ladd House & Garden, a 1764 Georgian mansion-turned-museum with picturesque tiered gardens, brick pathways throughout, and the massive “Tree of Independence” — a horse chestnut tree planted by a Declaration of Independence signer in 1776.
The downtown area is packed with cozy cafés and bakeries.
While casually strolling the brick and cobblestone streets in downtown Portsmouth, I’ve stumbled on a number of European-inspired bakeries and cafés that are perfect for reading a book, catching up with my travel companion, or people watching.
I highly recommend grabbing a macaron from La Maison Navarre, a flaky croissant or jambon-beurre from Elephantine Bakery, or a Turkish coffee and pastry from Caffe Kilim.
If I had to choose one spot worth stopping at, though, it’s Kaffee Vonsolln. Every time I’m in town, I swing by to enjoy a honey latte and a traditional German treat on the quaint patio.
I love spending time on the water when the weather is nice.
When my husband and I visit Portsmouth in the spring and summer months, one of our favorite ways to spend an afternoon is renting a tandem kayak from Esther’s Marina.
We’ll paddle out into the scenic back channel of the Piscataqua River, exploring the many coves and salt marshes along the way. Sometimes, we’ll stop to marvel at the Colonial-era Wentworth-Coolidge Mansion, or have a picnic on one of the nearby islands.
If kayaking isn’t your thing, Esther’s Marina, Portsmouth Paddle Co., and Seven Rivers Paddling also offer paddleboard rentals.
Or, if you prefer a more relaxing excursion, consider a yacht charter — think scenic whale-watching, fall foliage, and BYOB sunset cruises with charcuterie boards.
It’s super easy to get to the beach, too.
Portsmouth may not be located right on the ocean, but some of my favorite beaches in New Hampshire are just a short drive away in Rye, New Castle, and Hampton.
When we stay in Portsmouth during the summer, we’ll spend at least one day at Hampton Beach, which is known for its nostalgic boardwalk, weekly fireworks displays, and well-maintained shoreline.
After surfing and sunbathing for a few hours, we stroll over to the bustling strip to grab ice cream or cool off in the arcade.
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