New York Fashion Week’s spring/summer 2027 season was, to say the very least, eventful. Treks to Queens for Luar’s world domination and Storm King Art Center to drink out of a margarita fountain with Collina Strada. Shows that were actually just parties. Fashion heist films watched in a black box theater. Returning to Earth with Thom Browne. And collections, despite the chaos, that cut through the noise. Here’s everything we saw, everywhere we went and everything we thought throughout the week.
Coach
With all of the slinky silhouettes and wearable neutrals, I had a passing thought that we might be seeing the Rick Owens-ification of Coach. Then a model walked down the runway in a blindingly sparkly party hat and blazer before musicians from UpBeat NYC broke out in a live performance while dancers vogued down the runway and I was like, NVM! HBD 85th birthday, Coach! — Julissa James
Prototype magazine Issue Zero at DSMNY
The launch party for Alastair McKimm’s new magazine, Prototype, was cracking. So cracking in fact that we could barely make it through the sea of people at Dover Street Market New York, but we still managed to spot and say hi to Queen Mother Martine Rose in the crowd. — JJ
Proenza Schouler
Loved the very cool, calm energy of this show. An example of how lots of pattern and color can be elegant and effortlessly wearable. — Elisa Wouk Almino
Some of those final looks — oversize grommets, exposed midriff, black leather, red sequined zebra print — made me want to untz untz untz. The new Proenza is for the party girls. — JJ
The Moncler flagship on Fifth
There’s a new flagship in Manhattan and it’s huge! The theme is: It keeps going … and going. Designed by Gilles & Boissier, the space has mirrored ceilings everywhere, only adding to the endless effect. The upper floor, featuring the Moncler Grenoble line, has you fantasizing about the chicest après ski outfits. — EWA
Tory Burch
There were no show notes waiting for us at our seats, because the clothes spoke for themselves. My favorite pieces were the colorful cinched knit tops, and I especially reveled in the accessories (the sashaying scarves, the chunky necklaces), which the brand is always so good at. — EWA
Acne Studios 30th anniversary party
A private residence in the West Village. A shockingly good celery, blue cheese, walnut appetizer. Artwork on display from Francesco Clemente, Andy Warhol, Frank Stella and Julian Schnabel. Performances by 070 Shake and Fcukers. A guest list that ranged from Honey Dijon to Durga Chew-Bose. The makings of an actually memorable fashion week party. — JJ
Calvin Klein
It didn’t have me falling in love with minimalism (as someone who veers maximalist), but I loved the fits that looked like second skin — the leanest and lightest looks — like the silk and translucent slips. — EWA
Eckhaus Latta
Damn, I forgot how sexy silver armbands with a simple T-shirt can be. Sexhaus Latta! — JJ
Yves Saint Laurent & Photography at the ICP
So much to fawn over at this exhibition, but highlights included a photo of Yves Saint Laurent backstage at his first runway show and the archive of Polaroids taken during the preparation of his collections. — EWA
Altuzarra
I’m excited by a fashion show with a story. Altuzarra’s inspiration was a wonderful Thames & Hudson book of photographs from Casa Susanna, a Catskills retreat from the ’50s and ’60s, where men dressed up as women and tapped into “freer and more authentic versions of themselves.” The structured ’50s-inspired skirts were my favorite, but I also loved the playful states of undress as we moved through the show. It would’ve been even better if it had really leaned into the inspo and cast men in women’s clothes. — EWA
Conner Ives
More than the clothes, I was in it for the vibes. The models seemed to have genuine fun strutting through the Four Seasons Grill and it was refreshing for not being so self-serious. The show closed to the sound of Deniece Williams and had showgoers singing outside, I just want to be freeee! — EWA
Anna Sui
The Anna Sui girl is eternal, and she’s actually more fairy than girl. — JJ
Emily Dawn Long
“The Crack of Dawn,” a beautiful, cool and cortisol-elevating heist short film presenting Emily Dawn Long’s SS27 collection, was a breath of fresh this week. “I was designing the collection, but it was very much like character building. I was doing costume design essentially,” Dawn Long says about the collection, which ranges from casual to evening wear. On the film, directed by Mayan Toledano and written by Paige Elkington: “I love that it encompasses everything I love to do. I’m such a branding- world-building-whore.” Dawn Long’s famous gorilla grip on New York’s downtown style will soon be transplanted to L.A. with a new shop she’s curating in Echo Park opening soon, in collaboration with Kansas City boutique Mergers. — JJ
Area
The fact that the show notes referenced the iconic design of Ram Dass’ spiritual tome, “Be Here Now,” and also the famous text by Jenny Holzer — “In a dream you saw a way to survive and you were full of joy” — instantly put me in a good mood. Dresses made of silver gift ribbon and plastic jump ropes had the effect of an espresso shot. — JJ
Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen
Everyone I ran into was excited for CFDA/Vogue fashion fund finalist Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen’s collection. The show, called “Yard Sale Liberation,” may best be summed up by this passage in the notes: “This is not a fantasy. These are pieces for the world.” Slouchy hoodies over gossamer layers, wired cage-like corsets, an earthy milieu of silky, quilted and textured fabrics. A beautiful and tactile world indeed. — JJ
Diotima
How Rachel Scott can put together two beautiful shows at once is beyond me. I loved how personal this show felt. The wool textures and shapes made the silhouettes. — EWA
Luar
The jester-like pants! The glittering hats! The feather boas! It was all so dazzling at the Unisphere. — EWA
Collina Strada
By the time the last day of NYFW week rolled around, I needed to touch grass. We got that, and so much more at Collina Strada SS27. Guests were shuttled to the Storm King Art Center, where we were greeted with Blank Street Coffee and lavender vanilla scoops from Laz’s Ice Cream. Following the show — billowing shapes, punk-y hair sculptures, all classically Collina — we walked into a whimsical picnic complete with a margarita fountain. Bless. — JJ
Thom Browne
Now that was a performance. The Shed was transformed into an uplifting garden wonderland, and the layered styling of the (sometimes bug-inspired) looks was on-point. What a fashion week finale! — EWA
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