Véronique Nichanian has done it again for Hermès. This Fall/Winter 2025 season sees the designer illuminate a gloomy Paris Fashion Week with a bold and dynamic jockey-inspired collection. Taking to the racetrack for inspiration, Nichanian tells a story rooted in its equestrian heritage.
The designer shared that with this particular collection she wanted it “to be strong and energetic.” She was intentional with the coloring, bringing “deep and strong dark color mixed together to give an energy, because I think that in this very deep time, very difficult time, we need to bring some energy again, and some sweetness and happiness in our clothes.” Seemingly dozens of shades of brown showed up on the runway, all of which listed out in the show program — “brown, coffee, bronze, chrome green, lead, taupe, slate, charcoal gray, navy, prunoir” contrasted with “vanilla, pebble, celadon blue, desert, rope.” While brown often brings a feeling of darkness, this collection leans into its roots to bring a precise and poetic collection that plays with the anatomy of an allure.
Utilitarian jackets were shown alongside short coats like bombers, parkas, raincoats, flying coats and duffel coats, blended the technicality with sophistication. Delicate and the quintessence of subtlety, the collection while visually relaxing was exciting. Taking the conventional boring business suit, Nichanian brings excitement with a perfect narrow-arrow double-breasted suit. After the show she said, “I think it’s time to bring back the pleasure of wearing a suit, not because you have to, but for the fun of it.” Leaning back to traditional ideals of chic, Nichanian is injecting a bold and vibrant energy to modern sophistication.
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