Good morning! Today we have for you:
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A broccoli potato soup that sears, not boils, those florets
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A skillet chicken to send off the last of summer’s tomatoes and peppers
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And, a really elegant marble cake
In my Brooklyn neighborhood, there was once a restaurant called Franny’s that became famous for its pizzas. Andrew Feinberg’s puffy, leopard-spotted pies drew people from all over the city, and they were indeed some of the best in town.
Yet I loved Franny’s just as much for their seasonal soups, salads and cocktails, all of which derived rare magic from unexpected ingredients or techniques. Local lovage simmered into simple syrup zhuzhed the house spritz; a sprinkling of young, nutty pecorino, black mint and bright green Sicilian pistachios galvanized the wax beans. An aggressive sear on broccoli florets, so that they nearly burned, turned them into one of the most memorable broccoli and potato soups I’ve ever had.
I’ve extolled this soup before, and now that the evenings in the Northeast are getting reliably chilly, it’s time to cook up a batch. Its genius is in its method. By browning the broccoli on only one side, you get a complex caramelized flavor that’s balanced by the freshness of the bright green side. The browning adds so much flavor you don’t even need to use stock — just water seasoned with red pepper flakes, olive oil and lemon — and then finish with some Parmesan. And should you become distracted and maybe over-sear the broccoli, fear not. As Sarah wrote in the comments after doing just that, “It actually made the soup even tastier!”
Featured Recipe
Seared Broccoli and Potato Soup
More food for thought
Garlic bread: Soups, especially puréed vegetable-based ones, typically call for crusty bread for dunking, like a well-browned baguette ripped into chunks, or slices of toasted, buttered sourdough. But Ali Slagle takes this to the next level with her pungent, herby take on garlic bread. Cutting the loaf vertically, like a Hasselback potato, keeps the butter from burning, and adding plenty of garlic gives the requisite bite. I also love this with slivers of mozzarella tucked into the pockets, as Ali suggests, which melt into gooey, glossy cheese pulls.
Broiled salmon with mustard and lemon: Here’s another example of how less can be more in the kitchen. A minimalist smear of olive oil and Dijon mustard caramelizes under the broiler into a deeply savory crust for silky salmon filets. A squeeze of lemon cuts through the richness with a welcome snap. I love this served with a sliced avocado, whose velvety flesh echoes the salmon and turns a simple dish into a plush and satisfying meal.
Skillet chicken with peppers and tomatoes: Yewande Komolafe’s chicken dinner winner is all about the balance of sweetness and tang. Red bell peppers, juicy cherry tomatoes, a splash of sherry vinegar and a squeeze of honey are all simmered together in one pan, each ingredient bringing out the best in the others. Serve it over noodles or couscous to soak up every drop of the piquant, ruddy sauce.
Curry shrimp and sweet potato: Inspired by Caribbean curry shrimp, Ashley Lonsdale’s recipe is smart and adaptable. Her method is strategic: marinate shrimp in curry powder while you sweat onions, peppers, garlic and chiles, then stir in some kale and sweet potato and cook until everything is meltingly soft. The shrimp and more sliced onions are stirred into the pan at the end. Adding the onion in stages allows some to sweeten while the rest stay crisp and sharp, adding texture and bite. It’s a weeknight meal that gives big Saturday night energy.
Marble cake: In this buttery pound cake, Genevieve Ko creates perfect harmony between the chocolate and vanilla swirls, which are flavored, respectively, with orange blossom water and almond extract. The result is a tender, not-too-sweet cake that’s ideal with coffee or tea — or honestly, just standing at the counter, furtively shaving slivers off the side. (Don’t always keep a knife next to the cake container.) It keeps beautifully at room temperature and freezes well, making it the kind of cake to have on hand, ready for when your sweet tooth calls.
That’s all for now, except to remind you that if you run into any technical problems, you can send an email to [email protected]. And as always, I’m at [email protected] if you want to say hello.
I’ll see you on Wednesday.
Melissa Clark has been writing her column, A Good Appetite, for The Times’s Food section since 2007. She creates recipes for New York Times Cooking, makes videos and reports on food trends. She is the author of 45 cookbooks, and counting.
The post A Better Broccoli Soup appeared first on New York Times.
