It wouldn’t be London Fashion Week without Fashion East, and the SS26 show – which took place at London’s Institute of Contemporary Art on Friday evening – proved once again why the UK capital is known as the hub for fresh underground talent.
The non-profit incubator, founded and led by Lulu Kennedy, has been instrumental in launching the careers of some of fashion’s most influential figures, including Kim Jones, Craig Green, Simone Rocha, Martine Rose, Wales Bonner, and JW Anderson. This season, Fashion East honors that legacy with Us Lot: 25 Years of Fashion East, powered by Nike, an exhibition running from September 20–21 at the ICA’s lower gallery, offering a retrospective on its rich fashion heritage.
However, in addition to celebrating the archives, Fashion East continues to look forward. Its Spring/Summer 2026 showcase introduced a new trio of emerging talent.
This season’s line-up featured two exciting debuts and one returning favorite. First up was Barcelona-born, Central Saint Martins MA design graduate Jacek Gleba. Alongside him was Mayhew, the eponymous label by UK designer Louis Mayhew. And lastly, Nuba – the label by antoher CSM alum Cameron Williams – returned for a third season.
Mayhew opened the show with a collection that felt like a masterclass in deconstruction. Building on the brand’s signature layered style, Mayhew incorporated a mix of textures, often seeming as though pieces had been collaged directly onto the body. The use of different textiles added depth to the collection, while subtle paint splashes and striking accessories – such as elongated beaded necklaces and textural bags – added further intrigue to the pieces.
Following Mayhew, Nuba presented a collection that was both controlled and effortlessly stylish. The monochrome palette was sleek, with every look showcasing the brand’s signature fusion of African and London influences. The construction techniques also stood out, with each piece offering an elevated sense of craftsmanship. The standout moment came at the close of the show, with a showstopper look featuring an oversized feather-like jacket, sheer cream trousers, and intricately woven shoes.
The final collection came from Jacek Gleba, who presented a lively collection of dance-inspired looks. His SS26 offering featured soft, flowing fabrics, each piece seemingly designed to allow for movement and freedom. The color palette was gentle but impactful, and the strategic use of cutouts gave the collection a sense of both fluidity and modernity. Ballet flats and flip-flops grounded the looks in everyday street style, making the collection both fresh and wearable.
Scroll up to see the standout looks from the runway.
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