Foodies take note: Thinner crowds and richly colored foliage aren’t the only benefits of shoulder season on the continent.
Here’s an assortment of European culinary events to whet your autumnal appetite, including celebrations of truffles in Istria and pistachios on a lesser-known Greek island.
Istria
White Truffles, a Treasured Icon
Harvest season in Istria, the Rhode Island-sized, cornucopia-shaped peninsula hanging in the northern Adriatic between Croatia and Slovenia, can be an almost religious experience. Festivals held nearly every weekend from late August to December are dedicated to the region’s delicacies: olive oil, cheese, prosciutto, seafood and wine.
The peninsula’s most treasured icon, however, is the rare white truffle.
At the first signs of fall, zealous hunters from Croatia, which possesses about 90 percent of Istria, are drawn to the northern oak, poplar and beech forests along the peninsula’s Mirna River in search of the pungent white truffles, which sell for thousands of dollars per pound. They follow the call into the woods, long-handled trowels at the ready and trained dogs by their sides, navigating between branches and crunching over red and orange leaves for the treasures hidden beneath the soil’s surface near tree roots.
For connoisseurs, prizes from these hunts can be found on autumnal menus in local restaurants — classically served in pasta dishes and with eggs — and at a handful of festivals across the northern third of the peninsula.
White truffle season kicks off on Sept. 6 in the village of Motovun, perched above a forest in the Mirna River Valley. There’s the NOVA Eroica Istria Truffle Tour bicycle ride held on Sept. 21.; on Oct. 18 and 19, Motovun again welcomes visitors to the Teran and Truffle Festival, where the fungi are paired with Istria’s red Teran wine; and on Nov. 8 and 9, the town of Buzet hosts its own truffle festival, where gourmands can try a litany of dishes and truffle products.
The longest celebration, Zigante Truffle Days in the village of Livade, is spread over five weekends from Oct. 4 to Nov. 2. Inspired by Giancarlo Zigante (who in 1999, with his dog, Diana, unearthed what at that point was a world record white truffle that weighed 2.88 pounds), the festival attracts amateur aficionados and professional purveyors from around the world. The program includes tastings, auctions, cooking workshops and a train taking the curious on hunts in the Motovun Forest where Giancarlo and Diana made history.
“Truffles are fundamental to our culture,” says Adriano Zigante, Giancarlo’s son, who runs Zigante’s enterprises, which include Zigante Restaurant (also in Livade) and Istria’s largest production of truffle-infused creations including jams, oils, pâté and spices sold in shops across Croatia and Slovenia. “When you taste that strong, earthy flavor, you taste Istria.”
— Alex Crevar
Helsinki, Finland
The Baltic Herring Market
Salted, pickled, fried, curried — those are some of the many preparations of the small, oily fish that is a Finnish staple in Helsinki’s Baltic Herring Market. Held annually since 1743, this year’s market, which takes place from Oct. 5 to 11 in the city’s harborside Market Square, brings fishermen from different parts of Finland to sell their catch and compete for the titles of Best Pickled Herring and Herring Surprise of the Year.
Baltic herring, which is smaller and leaner than Atlantic herring, thrives in the brackish waters of the Baltic Sea. Though eaten year-round in Finland, it has the highest fat content in the fall, and fish caught in that season have historically been preserved — most commonly by pickling with various herbs and spices — as fuel for the long Finnish winter.
This year, around 20 fishermen and a handful of other vendors will be selling herring in its many incarnations, either from stalls set up in the square or from their own boats docked in the harbor. Dozens of varieties of the fish, including versions flavored with herbs and lemon or Christmas spices like cinnamon and clove, can be sampled on site or packed in tubs to take home. Other local products, like sea buckthorn juice and archipelago bread — a sweet, dark rye with a famously long shelf life — are also available, and a couple of antique sailing vessels join the festivities to dole out hot coffee and salmon soup.
The market attracts anywhere from 65,000 to 85,000 visitors annually, and most of the fishermen (like their parents before them) have been participating in it for decades. For Kenneth Nars, the co-founder of World of Mouth restaurant guide, that’s a big part of the appeal. Especially at a time when the population of fishermen is declining, he says, the market “is a great way to see how food was once brought to the city and to meet the fishermen who carry on that tradition.”
Mr. Nars has been a regular visitor to the market since he was a child, but as a food writer, he also served one year on the jury that decides the contest held on the first day for the two titles of Best Pickled Herring and Herring Surprise of the Year. “As soon as the winners are announced, everyone rushes over,” he says. “Those are the herrings that sell out first.”
But never fear. During the market, many Helsinki restaurants add Baltic herring specials to their menus, so even after hours, there’s a chance to sample the delicacy.
— Lisa Abend
Piedmont, Italy
The National Chestnut Fair
To find a fall harvest festival in Piedmont, drive down any country road plastered with brightly colored signs advertising upcoming fiere, feste or sagre. The northwestern Italian province, bordering France and Switzerland in the foothills of the Alps, is renowned for its Barolo wines, rich cuisine and regional delicacies including white truffles and chestnuts.
The latter, a specialty of the city of Cuneo and known as “autumn jewel,” is feted during one of the largest festivals in the region: the annual Fiera Nazionale del Marrone, which runs this year from Oct. 17 to 19.
“The event started in 1936 when the chestnut was very important for the economy,” said Sara Tomatis, the councilor for tourism, events and mountain affairs in Cuneo, a picturesque locale in western Piedmont surrounded by rivers, snow-capped mountains and dense forests. But then came World War II, and for decades the festival was forgotten — until 1999, when Cuneo decided to revive the tradition. A few years later, the event was designated a national fair in Italy.
Over three days, the heady aroma of roasting chestnuts wafts through the streets of Cuneo’s center, where market stalls line Via Roma, the main pedestrian street, and Piazza Galimberti, the central square ringed with palatial neoclassical buildings. Chestnut roasters use long-handled metal pans — the size of a car tire with holes in the bottom — to toss the nuts high in the air over open flames.
“This is the traditional way people used to cook chestnuts,” Ms. Tomatis said.
Cuneo’s chestnut, which is known for its sweet, delicate flavor and crunchy texture, is not the only product on display at the fair, where the goal is to introduce visitors to the breadth of specialties in the region, Ms. Tomatis said. To that end, there are also cooking demonstrations with chefs preparing dishes featuring Alba truffles and Castelmagno cheese. A beer garden features artisanal brews from regional producers. There are cheese and wine tastings, musical performances, excursions into the surrounding valley and forests, and lectures about sustainability and biodiversity.
About 200,000 visitors are expected to attend Cuneo’s festival, which is also the first chestnut fair of the season in a valley where nearly every small town and municipality will host a celebration later in the fall.
— Ingrid K. Williams
French Basque Country
The Espelette Pepper Festival
The village of Espelette in the French Basque Country is a perfect destination for those who like it hot, especially in late October.
Every year at the end of August, dozens of long, neatly threaded garlands of bright red peppers begin to festoon the facades of the half-timbered houses to dry in the sun. Their presence signals that the harvest of the region’s most famous seasoning, the horn-shaped Gorria variety of the capsicum annuum pepper known as piment d’Espelette, has begun.
The harvest continues until the first frost but is largely completed by the end of October when the pretty little village that gave the peppers its name celebrates its most famous produce with a two-day festival, this year on Oct. 25 and 26.
The peppers are an indispensable heat source in French Basque cooking and a signature flavor used to season everything from mustard to chocolate. They have also been an emblem of Basque identity for more than four centuries.
Brought to Europe from Mexico by Christopher Columbus more than five centuries ago, the pepper was originally used medicinally. When its antibacterial properties were discovered, the Basques began using it as a rub on hams and in other charcuterie. Eventually, the pepper, which is dried after picking and ground into a brick red powder, found its way into the kitchen as a condiment. With a Scoville score of four on a scale of one to 10, mildest to most fiery, the pleasantly piquant pepper with a smoky, winey scent frequently replaces black pepper in Basque cooking.
In 2000, the French government awarded the piment d’Espelette a prestigious Appellation d’Origine Protégée label, which defines the geographic zone where the pepper may be cultivated and specifies the way in which it can be processed. It also prescribes regulations for the processing of the pepper, including a 15-day drying period in the sun to bring out its fullest flavor, followed by a few hours of oven drying. Peppers from different farms may not be mixed, and every farm’s final product is subject to a taste test by government experts to see if the quality of a harvest merits the official piment d’Espelette label.
This year the Fête du Piment d’Espelette begins at 3.30 p.m. with a show of Basque dancing in the heart of the village, followed by a concert by a male choir in the Church of Saint Étienne. (Male choirs are an ancient Basque tradition, and this beautiful church is small, so arrive early.) The streets of Espelette will be lined with stands selling all varieties of piment d’Espelette and other Basque products, like Irouléguy wines, Ossau-Iraty cheese, charcuterie, black cherry preserves and more.
The festival is also famous for its street food, including spit-roasted ham and octopus cooked in red wine; stands selling sandwiches of freshly carved Basque ham and Ossau Iraty cheese; and barbecue stalls serving up duck breasts, chicken, sausage and ribs, all seasoned with piment d’Espelette.
Sunday begins with a mass at 10 a.m., which includes a blessing of the peppers, followed by a parade of the confréries (brotherhoods) of the piment d’Espelette producers and the induction of new members. Brass bands fill the streets all day long until the final gala show with more Basque dancing at 3.30 p.m.
— Alexander Lobrano
Vienna
Wine-Hiking Days
One weekend every fall, when it’s cool enough to hike but the sun still shines, the wine hills in Vienna swell with visitors. Starting from 10 a.m., groups wander from one winery or tavern to the next, stopping to imbibe Grüner Veltliner and Riesling and to snack on cheeses, charcuterie and baked goods.
This festive experience is called Weinwandertag, or Wine Hiking Day. Despite the singular name, the annual event takes place across two days; this year, the dates are Sept. 27 and 28.
There are more than 100 wineries spread around the edges of Vienna, many of which have taverns attached. Tourists often overlook or skip these parts of the city, perhaps deterred by their distance from the center — about one hour on public transit — or by their inconsistent opening hours.
But the Wine Hiking Days are a perfect opportunity to explore this aspect of Vienna, since wineries along four preplanned routes commit to staying open until 6 p.m. The routes run through four sections of the city — in the northwest, north, west and southwest — and each is accessible by bus or tram, bike, taxi or Uber.
The maps, available online, are marked with symbols that indicate information stations, wineries or taverns, public transit stops, scenic overlooks and easier alternative routes for those with children. I’d suggest checking out either parts or the entirety of the route from Neustift am Walde to Nussdorf, since it has the most stops.
In addition to wine (most of which is white), grape juice and snacks, visitors can buy a type of wine that’s fermented for a very short period, called sturm. Sturm, which means “storm” in German, is sold only in early fall and contains about 3 percent to 5 percent alcohol. Beware: Locals warn that more than a glass or two can turn the stomach.
The vibe during Wine Hiking Days is deeply unpretentious. When the outdoor tables are full, people spill into the grape vines, claiming spots on the grass. Many Austrians opt for the “liter-liter,” a liter of white wine and a liter of sparkling water, which they mix into spritzers (about 15 to 25 euros, or $18 to $30).
If the weekend is particularly sunny, the day turns into something of a mass outdoor party. As the sun sets, some of the taverns stay open, and the echoing sounds of laughter and chatter fill the darkened hills.
— Valeriya Safronova
Aegina, Greece
Rich, Buttery Pistachios
Over the last 16 years, a lesser-known Greek island near Athens has found a reason to rejoice: the rich, buttery pistachio.
During the third weekend of September, the quaint promenade at Aegina — a picturesque and low-key destination in the Saronic Gulf that is mostly frequented by Athenians — transforms into a bustling hub of flavors and music thanks to the Aegina Fistiki Festival.
Pistachios have been cultivated in Aegina for more than a century, and over time the nut became the island’s trademark product. It was added to the list of Protected Designation of Origin products about 30 years ago, though it wasn’t until 2009 that the Aeginian pistachio was brought into the country’s gastronomic limelight.
Just before the Greek financial crisis, a group of locals organized a small-scale fair where pistachio producers could showcase their crops. Meanwhile, Aegina — the island home to the ancient temple of Aphaia and an olive grove with trees dating back to antiquity — had long been a summer haven for leading Greek artists and writers, including Yiannis Moralis and Nikos Kazantzákis.
The fair quickly became a point of convergence for the island’s dual identity: one rooted in pistachio production, the other in highbrow culture. “Before the fair began, a big part of the island’s population did not come into contact with the artists,” said Marilena Giannouli, a longtime resident and the president of the fair’s organizing committee. Soon, the festival came to represent more than a commercial exhibit of the island’s pistachios; it became an emblem of its hybrid identity.
This year’s celebration, which runs from Sept. 18 to 21, will include about 50 exhibition stands. Some will be occupied by producers, displaying fresh and roasted pistachios, while others feature related products: pistachio-based pesto, butter, chocolate spread, baklava, chocolate pralines, and mousse with a crunchy pistachio base — the island’s answer to Dubai chocolate.
And pistachios aren’t marketed only as food. Candles, shampoos, and body lotions made with local produce, along with ceramics and jewelry inspired by it, will also be on display. The island’s main port and waterfront, where most festival events are held, will host musical performances, including a concert by the island’s orchestra and another dedicated to Markos Vamvakaris, the father of rebetiko, or Greek folk music. Talks on the health benefits of pistachios will also take place.
Beyond the organized events, the whole island will be living and breathing pistachios. “All across Aegina, restaurants will be offering pistachio-based dishes,” said Ms. Giannouli. “It’s a festival for everyone,” she added — “except maybe for those allergic to pistachio!”
— Iliana Magra
Ludwigsburg, Germany
The World’s Largest Pumpkin Festival
The Kürbisausstellung Ludwigsburg is the world’s largest pumpkin festival. It’s part harvest fair, part outdoor art gallery, and very much a Swabian crowd-pleaser — all just 15 minutes north of Stuttgart in the Blühendes Barock Gartenschau, the sprawling baroque gardens of an imposing former royal residence of the House of Württemberg.
Founded in 2000, the festival runs from late August to early November and features around half a million pumpkins, including 700 varieties of the versatile squash from all over the world.
This year, the event’s cinematic theme promises to turn the elegant park into a squash-filled film set. Roughly 60,000 gourds make up the monumental displays of silver-screen icons — including Charlie Chaplin, Marilyn Monroe, Harry Potter, Superman, Mickey Mouse, Yoda, King Kong and others — in stunning autumnal colors. There’s also a model of the Starship Enterprise from “Star Trek,” a film camera and a red carpet.
The food at the Kürbisausstellung — “kürbis” means “pumpkin,” “ausstellung” means “exhibition” — is as much a draw as the sculptures. “We try to show the diversity of pumpkins,” said Alisa Käfer, who manages the festival. Perennial favorites like pumpkin soup and pumpkin pie are staples on the menu, which also includes local specialties like Maultaschen (Swabian ravioli), Schupfnudeln (similar to gnocchi) and Flammkuchen (a pizza-like flatbread with toppings). There are even pumpkin waffles and pumpkin French fries. And yes, there’s even a kürbis beer, which Ms. Käfer describes as “deep orange, sweet, but not as sweet as you might expect.”
Along with the reconstruction of film history in squash, the festival includes a string of activities and competitive events, including a regatta (Sept. 20 to 21) where contestants paddle across the palace’s lake in pumpkins weighing between 700 and 900 pounds, and a pumpkin carving contest (Oct. 19) where artisans present their own skillful interpretations of this year’s cinematic motif. (Noncompetitive family-friendly pumpkin carving is offered throughout the event.)
In addition, there are two pumpkin weigh-offs: the European championship (Oct. 13) and the German championship (Oct. 15). Ms. Käfer said that there was hope of breaking the current world record of 1265 kilograms, about 2,789 pounds.
It all ends with the gleefully destructive Kürbisschlachtfest, or Pumpkin Slaughter Festival, when the giants weighing more than 1000 kilograms are cracked open (chain saws are sometimes required) for their seeds — next year’s spectacle beginning inside this year’s pulpy wreckage.
— A.J. Goldmann
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