Gel nail polish has always been a bit of a paradox. Shiny, durable, and near-impossible to chip, but vaguely ominous if you ever stopped to Google the ingredients. Now, one of those ingredients has just been banned across Europe. And, surprise, surprise, the United States isn’t following suit.
As of September 1, the European Union has officially banned TPO (trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide), a chemical that gives gel polish its ultra-glossy finish and rapid LED/UV curing time. TPO isn’t in every gel formula, but it’s common enough that the beauty industry took notice. Nail salons are being forced to ditch their inventory immediately, with no grace period and no exceptions.
Why the sudden freak out over TPO? European regulators labeled it “carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic to reproduction.” That sounds terrifying, but the research is still in the early stages. Most of the concern comes from animal studies linking TPO to fertility issues and potential harm to reproductive organs.
Gel Nail Polish Is Now Banned in Europe, but Not in the US
Dermatologist Dr. Hannah Kopelman told Wellness Pulse that the EU’s decision is “more of a precautionary move rather than a response to strong human evidence,” since most of the research on TPO’s health effects has been limited to animal studies.
Meanwhile, across the Atlantic, nothing’s changed. TPO remains legal and unregulated in the US, where more than 100 million women use nail products. You can walk into most salons today and get a TPO-heavy manicure without anyone blinking. Even products that were restricted to professional use in the EU—capped at 5 percent TPO concentration—are still floating around American salons and retailers.
There are ways to reduce exposure. Brands like OPI’s Intelli-Gel, Aprés Nail, and Aimeili offer TPO-free options. Experts also suggest spacing out gel appointments, choosing well-ventilated salons, and using a protective base coat.
There’s more to worry about than what’s in the formula. UV-curing devices have raised concerns about skin cancer risk, and letting gel polish “grow out” can open the door to bacterial infections like Pseudomonas, which stains nails a swampy green and can become dangerous in people with weakened immune systems.
Still, the EU’s ban highlights a bigger question: how much are we willing to tolerate for beauty that lasts three weeks? While Europe is drawing a hard line, the US seems content to wait, much like many of our food products. Or at least, to keep painting over the problem.
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