It’s almost impossible to scroll through social media or stroll through skincare aisles without being drawn to the chic packaging of luxury brands at prices that make you question whether it’s worth going broke. There’s no shortage of quick fixes, pricey potions, and false (or extremely subjective) promises within the beauty industry, and consumers often find themselves victims of products that come at a pretty penny. But how can someone truly distinguish between a luxury and an over-the-counter skincare regimen that will provide quality results? I talked to dermatologists, cosmetic chemists, and plastic surgeons to find out the truth.
How skincare pricing works
“There are lots of factors that go into the price of a product,” says Michelle Wong, a cosmetic chemist and science educator behind the Lab Muffin YouTube channel. “Rigorous product testing, optimising the formula, and more expensive ingredients can drive up the cost, and these will change the performance of the product.”
The reality is that consumers often bear the cost of sleek packaging designed to either protect the product or to attract attention with its aesthetic appeal. What’s inside a bottle of a $100-plus product might not be more effective for your skin than ingredients found in over-the-counter products from a local drugstore. “Fragrance, organic botanical extracts, and luxurious-sounding ingredients like gold tend to be more expensive to add to a product, despite there being little evidence for their skin benefits,” Wong told the Daily Beast.
According to Lauren Ploch, a board-certified dermatologist based in Georgia, many drugstore skincare brands are owned by the same companies that manufacture luxury products. “Some of the drugstore brands even have access to better technology than more expensive brands,” Dr. Ploch says. “Occasionally, the vehicle of a more expensive product is more cosmetically elegant than a cheaper product, but that’s a preference versus a difference in efficacy.”
Dr. Ploch notes that the pricier serums and creams promising transformative results are generally just marketing hype. “The one exception is for cosmeceuticals purchased through a doctor’s office, which may have prescription-grade or medical-grade ingredients that can’t be purchased over-the-counter.”
The decision to spend or splurge ultimately comes down to personal preference. Dr. Ploch explains that the cost of specific product categories, such as sunscreens, retinols, and moisturizers, is less about efficacy and more aligned with consumer experience—the way a product feels, performs, and layers with others. “The more expensive the product, the more cosmetically elegant it usually is,” Dr. Ploch says. “A $10 sunscreen may be just as effective as a $40 sunscreen, but the $40 sunscreen may blend into the skin faster.”
According to Dr. Ploch, a complete skincare routine can be created using affordable products found at the drugstore. “I would spend more money on getting a prescription retinoid,” she says, though she explained that a quality retinoid can be purchased for $45 or less.
However, Dr. Ploch cautions consumers not to assume that buying a product over the counter is invariably cheaper than consulting a dermatologist or skincare professional. (It is worth noting, though, that the U.S. is experiencing a dermatologist shortage, and not everyone has access to or can afford treatment from a medical practitioner.) She explained a situation where a patient had invested in a $150 product online that did not improve his skin condition. Dr. Ploch could then prescribe him a solution covered by insurance, with only a $35 copay for the visit. “He could’ve saved a lot of time and money by skipping the online skincare vendor.”
Do expensive skincare products use better ingredients?
The short answer: not necessarily.
A product’s ingredient label, which often includes chemical combinations, antioxidants, or miracle claims that are difficult to comprehend or even pronounce, can turn a simple cleanser or moisturizer into a lengthy read. All you really want to know is whether it will work for your skin or not.
“Most skincare products are regulated as cosmetics and do not require FDA pre-approval for demonstrating efficacy,” says Helen He, a board-certified dermatologist who serves as the director of Lasers and Cosmetic Surgery and co-director of Mount Sinai-Clinique Healthy Skin Dermatology Center. “While some expensive products feature proprietary or rare ingredients that are not found elsewhere, they will not necessarily deliver superior results than these science-backed ingredients that are more accessible.” Dr. He recommends consumers thoroughly research clinically proven ingredients from peer-reviewed studies that target an individual’s specific skincare needs.
“You want to pay attention to the active ingredients, not the price tag,” says Sungat Grewal, a double-board-certified dermatologist and co-director of laser surgery and cosmetic dermatology at UCSF Health. “Luxury brands might invest in unique texture or patent ingredients, but that doesn’t always translate to better results for the average consumer.”
According to Dr. Grewal, the delivery systems and proprietary complexes in certain high-end brands’ products can be beneficial because of their ability to penetrate deeper into the skin. Still, she encourages consumers to be cautious of added fragrances and botanicals that may cause irritation and trigger allergic reactions.
Don’t believe (most of) the hype
In a world where consumers are being bombarded with s and social media “skinfluencers” marketing products for a paycheck, it can be difficult to know exactly what should be included in a daily skincare regimen. “Everyone is an expert on social media these days, and many of the people advertising products don’t have a background in science,” Dr. Grewal says. “There’s been this trend that the more you use, the more you layer, the better results you’ll get.
Dr. Grewal advises against overly complex skincare routines that consist of multi-step topicals (like those seen being used by tweens on TikTok), as they can do more damage than good. “I’m a minimalist when it comes to topicals, because the science really isn’t there to justify a 10-step routine,” she notes. The products Dr. Grewal recommends—regardless of a patient’s goals or priorities for their skin—include a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher, vitamin C, E, ferulic acid, as well as a retinol or retinoid.
“We need to make sure ingredients are high quality and scientifically tested and proven,” says Svetlana Danovich, a board-certified New York-based cosmetic surgeon. “We should not pay for brands; we should pay for efficacy, and every consumer should be more educated and start from the basics.”
Skincare recommendations from our experts
CeraVe Renewing Salicylic Acid Cleanser($15)
Why it’s good: A great skincare routine starts with a fresh, clean base. Dr. Danovich recommends daily gentle exfoliation, such as using mild cleansers with salicylic acid, like this pick from CeraVe, which can help you maintain a radiant complexion and remove excess grime and makeup.
Elta MD UV Clear Tinted SPF 46 Facial Sunscreen ($24)
Why it’s good: Dr. Grewal says broad-spectrum protection is a skincare necessity—and it’s a bonus if your sunscreen can help to even the tone of your skin in addition to protecting it. “Tinted sunscreen will additionally block visible light, which we now know can contribute to hyperpigmentation and brown spots that often concern patients.” Dr. Ploch recommends using Elta MD UV Clear Tinted SPF 46 Facial Sunscreen for daily sun protection, which offers lightweight coverage, combined with the transparent Elta MD UV Daily Untinted Sunscreen SPF for the face. (It’s a fan-favorite among consumers with sensitive skin for a reason!) It’s a little pricier than some other options—though nothing outlandish—but fans say it is 100-percent worth it.
Lubriderm Fragrance-Free Daily Moisture Lotion ($12)
Why it’s good: Great news for budget-conscious shoppers: this skincare essential doesn’t need to cost $40, $60, or $125, no matter what you’ve heard. “Moisturizers are an area where you can save money because there’s not much of a clinical difference if you’re buying an over-the-counter product versus something expensive,” Dr. Grewal says, naming Lubriderm as a standout drugstore product. Skincare fans agree, with over 900 users giving full marks to the Lubriderm Fragrance-Free Daily Moisture Lotion—which costs just 12 bucks—on Amazon.
Tretinoin 0.5% Cream (prescription needed)
Average price (with insurance): $15
Average price (without insurance): $20.50
Why it’s good: “For retinoids, a prescription is better than an over-the-counter retinol at treating sun damage, wrinkles, and acne,” says Dr. Ploch, recommending that products like Tretinoin 0.5% Cream or tazarotene 0.05% cream be used five times per week, every night.
The post The Heated Debate Over Luxury vs. Drugstore Skincare, Explained appeared first on The Daily Beast.
