Cole’s French Dip, the oldest restaurant and saloon in Los Angeles, is slated to close its doors Aug. 3. The last day of service for the landmark restaurant, which claims to have invented the French dip, will be Aug. 2.
“The litany of reasons for closing are not unique to Cole’s alone; they are affecting most independent restaurants in Los Angeles,” said owner Cedd Moses in a press release announcing the restaurant’s closure. “The global pandemic, the actors and writers strikes, overall crime, as well as the consistently rising costs of labor and goods, unsustainably high rents and mounting bureaucracy and legal exposure have all led to this unfortunate outcome.”
Founded by Henry Cole in 1908, Cole’s French Dip opened as Cole’s Pacific Electric Buffet, named after the Pacific Electric Building in which it’s housed. Lore has it that the eponymous dish originated when a customer with a bad case of sore gums asked for his sandwich to be lowered into the jus because the French roll was too crunchy for him. (In Chinatown, Philippe the Original also claims to have created the dish.)
The 21st century iteration of Cole’s French dip sandwich comes with a choice of roast beef, braised pork or lamb, or pastrami, served on a crusty roll lined with melted cheese (Swiss, cheddar, American or goat), a pickle spear and a cup of au jus for dipping. It’s still one of the most popular items on the menu.
“We have cherished our time serving the Downtown community, and will continue to craft great drinks and our renowned French dip sandwiches until we shutter,” the press release stated. “We care deeply about our family of staff and are immensely grateful for our amazing guests who have supported Cole’s over the years. We invite you to come in to see us this month before our departure, to laugh, to cry, to raise glasses, to eat, and to say your goodbyes right alongside us.”
Despite its long-standing ties to the local food scene, Brian Lenzo, the senior vice president of operations for Pouring With Heart, the ownership group which took over the restaurant in 2008, said the “writing was on the wall for a long time.”
In addition to rising costs of labor and rent, the historic core of downtown has increasingly deteriorated, he said; nearly every other day Cole’s employees have to clean human feces from the storefront.
Lenzo said he hopes the fate of Cole’s — like other historic L.A. restaurants that have recently shuttered permanently — will serve as a “catalyst” for the community to rally behind local businesses.
“By the time the Olympics get here, all these mom and pops will be gone,” he said. “Hopefully it’s a wake up call for the right people to step up and figure out a plan.”
As news of the impending closure spread on social media, patrons began sharing their favorite memories at the iconic diner. But the announcement has rocked the downtown L.A. community in particular.
DTLA Insider was also one of the first to announce the closure on Instagram on Sunday. Media Moussavy, who runs the popular account, said, “You have to improve the environment before anyone wants to open up a business here. “
“This [restaurant] has lasted the Great Depression, World Wars, every economic downturn, and it’s sad to see that this is the final straw that brings it down,” he added.
Cole’s has seen such a surge in business since the closing announcement that it had to pull in bartenders from sister establishments, said Lenzo. The restaurant also plans to invite past bartenders to come serve the community for a final time.
“We’ve seen a lot of outreach, people in L.A. love L.A., they have pride in L.A.,” said Lenzo. “To have to say goodbye, it’s something that scars the city a little bit.”
At this time, there are no plans to save Cole’s — though Moses, who has been a fan of the restaurant since childhood, said he is feeling “hopeful that someone will buy Cole’s and can carry on the tradition.”
This story is developing.
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