The country has other ancient and unusual institutions.
There are the two heads of state. Known as Captains Regent, these have been elected every six months since 1243. Held each year, on April 1 and October 1, elaborate appointment ceremonies are regulated by a strict protocol that has never changed over the centuries.
Despite its size, San Marino’s democratic principles reach right down to the grassroots. The country is divided into nine districts known as castelli, each headed by a captain also elected on a regular basis.
Ponti explains that all these checks and balances, which may seem paradoxical in a tiny republic, were put into place to ensure that no single leader in the hierarchy could limit the power of the others.
Visitors can get a sense of these different geographical jurisdictions by taking a panoramic cableway down from the old town to the castello of Borgo Maggiore, at the foot of Mount Titano.
Another attraction, back in the old town, is the Stamp and Coin Museum which displays commemorative medals, historical stamps and the first Sammarinese coins, dating from to the 19th and 20th centuries.
As well as its fairy-tale-like ancient center, San Marino is surrounded by nature and mountain trails. It’s ideal for trekking, cycling, rock climbing and archery.
And, as you’d expect from somewhere surrounded by some of Italy’s best food destinations, the culinary traditions of San Marino closely resemble those of the neighboring Romagna and Marche regions. That means all kinds of homemade pasta and piadina stuffed flatbreads.
It’s also known for its liqueurs, like amaretto and pistacchione made with pistachios.
Traditional desserts include Torta Tre Monti, or “Three Hills Cake” — named after the city-state’s three towers — made with layers of thin wafers sandwiching chocolate and hazelnut cream.
For day-trippers who overindulge, luckily the trip back to Italy is all downhill.
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