Opening
Aquarelle
Baris Koroglu, an owner of this new luxuriously appointed East Village spot, is serving a European take on seafood, with dishes like fluke crudo with blood orange, scallops spiced with piri piri, branzino with Meyer lemon, and salt-baked red snapper with herbs and olive oil. It pays to note that the stoves stay lit until midnight for that restorative lobster pasta with heirloom tomatoes before you call it a night.
47 Avenue B (East Fourth Street), aquarellenyc.com.
The Paris Café
Originally founded in 1873, this restaurant, a testament to the significance of the South Street Seaport, has been lovingly restored. It’s also proof that the current appeal of foie gras terrine, snails, onion soup and steak frites is not new. The food is by Benjamin Wolff who worked at Racines NY, pastries are by Emma Scanlon, and the entire project is the work of Julien Legeard, the founder of Legeard Studio and Opus Hospitality, with a deep bow to the history of the place. (Opens Thursday)
119 South Street (Peck Slip), 646-386-7038, pariscafenyc.com.
Sailor’s Choice
This outdoor dining venue in Hudson Yards is from Alex and Miles Pincus of Grand Banks in Manhattan and Pilot in Brooklyn, pierside restaurants on vintage boats. The centerpiece for this summer’s 200-seat sprawl is an old Hinkley lobster boat; the menu’s mostly East Coast seafood lists oysters, fish and chips and a lobster BLT.
Public Square and Gardens at Hudson Yards, 350 11th Avenue (West 30th Street), crew.fun
Tourmaline
Previously, a dinner prepared by the chef Yvan Lemoine, a Food Network celeb, could be arranged only by booking My Kitchen, the catering company he owns with his wife, Rebecca Sussman. Now, from Wednesdays through Fridays, the venue becomes this intimate French American restaurant with a leafy garden lounge. Among Mr. Lemoine’s specialties is classic pressed duck with cherries ($225 for two), a rare tour de force (pun intended) finished tableside in a silver duck press.
106-17 Metropolitan Avenue (Ascan Avenue), Forest Hills, Queens, 646-535-5799, tourmalinenyc.com.
Lucky Charlie
The restaurateurs Nino Coniglio and Drew Toresco have opened a pizzeria and Sicilian restaurant in a location that has one of the oldest coal ovens in the country. Exposed brick, vintage photos and leather upholstery evoke an era when coal-oven pizza was the coin of the realm for proper cheese-and-tomato pies.
254 Irving Avenue (Menahan Street), Bushwick, Brooklyn, 718-954-7184, no website.
Dolores
Emir Dupeyron grew up in Mexico City and now, with his wife, Cressida Greening, he’s bringing childhood memories to the table. The couple also owns Winona’s nearby. Bar food like guacamole, sopes con picadillo, papadilla (potato quesadilla), and chicharrones can accompany an agave drink from a list by Leanne Favre, also a partner, who was at Leyenda. Tacos, plates of meatballs, enchiladas and fried red snapper round out the menu. (Wednesday)
397 Tompkins Avenue (Jefferson Avenue), Bedford-Stuyvesant, Brooklyn, doloresbk.com, no phone.
Hundredfold Brasserie
A shopping and dining enclave at the western edge of Nassau County adjacent to the Belmont racetrack is home to the chef Timothy Hollingsworth’s first New York-area restaurant. It’s under the Patina Group umbrella, and offers more than 200 seats in a relaxed indoor-outdoor setting. This chef’s years at the French Laundry informs his American approach to brasserie fare, with a French bread pizza, a lobster roll, steak au poivre and roast chicken, and lemon ricotta cheesecake soft serve. (Wednesday)
Belmont Park Village, 2501 Hempstead Turnpike (Newbridge Road), Elmont, N.Y. 516-200-3653, hundredfoldbrasserie.com.
Branches
Smør Bakery & Test Kitchen
The Scandinavian bakery-cafe, with locations in the East Village and Clinton Hill, Brooklyn, now has a space with a full test kitchen for developing new sourdough items, rye and einkorn breads, and pastries like the Princess Cake. Part of the 3,000-square-foot industrial space is a retail bakery, cafe and shop.
155 Powers Street (Graham Avenue), Williamsburg, Brooklyn, 347-294-0058, smorbakerynyc.com.
Dumpling Xi
A dumpling corridor is developing near Union Square. Tim Ho Wan has had the neighborhood all to itself for some time but now, an outpost of a chain based in China with 800 locations, including a recent one in Flushing, Queens, is muscling in.
71 Fourth Avenue (10th Street), 212-652-7118, dumplingxius.com.
Lucky’s Steakhouse
The Southern California hot spot, where Oprah might show up, and which opened in SoHo last summer, has added East Hampton to the reach of its filet mignon. It has moved into the compact Cove Hollow Tavern building.
85 Montauk Highway (Cove Hollow Road), no phone, luckys-steakhouse.com.
La Goulue Sur Mer
The Victorian house on Route 27 in Southampton that was Enchanté for a couple of seasons and the popular Red Bar previously, is now another edition of La Goulue, Jean Denoyer’s original on the Upper East Side, being franchised in Palm Beach and now, in Southampton. (Wednesday)
210 Hampton Road (Old Town Road), Southampton, N.Y., 631-259-2360, lagouluehamptons.com.
Looking Ahead
Marcin Król
The chef who worked alongside Sota Atsumi, the chef and owner of Maison in Paris, is opening his own place, Cypsèle, on the Île Saint-Louis in September. He will give New Yorkers a taste of it at Blackbird Club at Parcelle, 146 West Houston Street (MacDougal Street), open to the public July 23 to 25. The dinners, $125 for six courses can be reserved.
opentable.com/r/blackbird-new-york.
Chefs on the Move
Evangelos Ktistakis
Mr. Ktistakis, who was recently at Elea on the Upper West Side, is now the executive chef at Gaia near Herald Square. Leaning strongly Greek, the Mediterranean restaurant opened last fall in a rather grand room preserving details from 1903.
Heloise Fishbach
This chef, who has worked in top kitchens in France and Hong Kong, is the new executive chef at La Mercerie in SoHo. She will help lighten the workload there of Marie-Aude Rose, the chef and partner, who will also be uptown as the chef for the new restaurant at Sotheby’s in the Breuer building on the Upper East Side. Roman & Williams, a design and hospitality firm, owns both.
Follow New York Times Cooking on Instagram, Facebook, YouTube, TikTok and Pinterest. Get regular updates from New York Times Cooking, with recipe suggestions, cooking tips and shopping advice.
Florence Fabricant is a food and wine writer. She writes the weekly Front Burner and Off the Menu columns, as well as the Pairings column, which appears alongside the monthly wine reviews. She has also written 12 cookbooks.
The post Aquarelle Brings the European Seaside to Avenue B appeared first on New York Times.
