Summary
- Kiko Kostadinov’s SS26 collection, presented at Paris Fashion Week, chronicles a single day on a secluded, imagined island
- The collection emphasizes diverse fabrics like light twill, textured mesh, and kasuri cotton, all processed with specialist treatments
- Expect new fabric bags inspired by Bulgarian tradition, and returning ASICS tabi runners with a gradient finish
Kiko Kostadinov, the acclaimed London-based designer, today unveiled his Spring/Summer 2026 collection during Paris Fashion Week, inviting the audience into a captivating narrative spanning a single day on a secluded, imagined island. This presentation, intentionally distanced from external trends, immersed viewers in the distinct rhythms of everyday life in a place defined by its self-contained nature.
The show’s staging itself mirrored the progression of time, with lighting shifts tracing the hours and garments appearing in a gentle, sequential flow. This unhurried reveal allowed the collection’s central focus—its diverse materials—to truly command attention. The morning’s tranquility was captured in the relaxed elegance of pieces, featuring silhouettes reminiscent of Bulgarian military pyjamas, rendered in abstract paisley twill and crinkled floral cotton. As the day advanced, the collection transitioned into functional, intuitively assembled workwear, showcasing technical stretch twill trousers, shorts, and jackets, alongside denim two-pieces and cotton jumpsuits. The narrative then built towards the sophistication of evening attire, with ruched and cropped blazers, deeply pleated trousers, and long coats featuring K-dart construction. Notably, this season marked the debut of bespoke suiting crafted in Japan for the label.
Kostadinov’s deep exploration of textiles was evident in the rich array of fabrics, often combined in both harmonious and unexpected ways. Lightweight twill, tactile mesh, contra-stitched leather and finely woven kasuri cotton underscored a profound emphasis on sensory experience. Specialized treatments permeated the collection, including stonewash on Japanese denim, resist-dyed knits and over-dyed jersey inspired by traditional Yomitan pottery glazes, all designed to convey a lived-in feel and the subtle weathering of materials over time. Following the ideals of wabi-sabi, the need for perfection ins not necessary, but rather the focus on the transient nature of materials is meant to be appreciated and imperfection is accepted. Furthermore, a spotlight shone on fine tailoring fabrics, many of which were custom-produced with Lanificio Luigi Ricceri in Prato, resulting in a unique hand-feel and appearance across materials like raised-stripe cotton, intricate mosaic wools, and waved seersucker-like wool.
Amidst the meticulously planned progression, accessories introduced new fabric bags recalling Bulgarian bagpipes and shepherd pouches, alongside lightweight flip-flops and patterned canvas trainers. ASICS tabi runners reappeared, featuring a gradient finish and a vintage 1960s typographic logo. Kiko Kostadinov’s SS26 collection stands as a masterclass in conceptual narrative allowing clothing to become a subtle, tactile chronicle of an enchanting day.
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