Opening
Haymarket
The chef India Doris, from England, who was an executive sous-chef at Saga, quarries her past to shape the cooking at her new restaurant. A bright mix of flavors from the Caribbean (salt cod fritters), India (lamb kofta) and New York (everything bagel crumble on Bibb lettuce) enlivens a menu that also looks to Europe (bouillabaisse sauce with prawns, linguine with sardines) at this 60-seat Chelsea bistro named for a Gilded Age theater in Manhattan. The manager, Alex Pfaffenbach, formerly of Eleven Madison Park and Quality Branded, is her partner. (Opens Friday)
326 Seventh Avenue (28th Street), haymarketnyc.com.
Samsaen
With the Queens restaurants Ma Kin Thai and Kam Rai Thai as a springboard, the chef Dhanapol Marprasert, known as Oak, is now established in Manhattan. His latest is named for a Bangkok neighborhood where he lived from the time he turned 3, (he was born in Washington, D.C.). The fairly narrow dining room is meant to evoke the Samsaen train station; old suitcases are piled on luggage racks. Thus the menu is divided into Coach Car, with familiar papaya salad and pad Thai with prawns; and First Class, with the chef’s signature jellyfish soup, bone marrow with coconut sauce and duck in spicy red curry. (Thursday)
480 Ninth Avenue (37th Street), 646-455-0822, samsaen.com.
Massara on Park
A fire on June 11 — damage, no injuries — has forced the chef Stefano Secchi to close Massara. It will relocate during construction, to what has been Kent Hospitality Group’s Time and Tide nearby. That seafood restaurant, which has had trouble getting its bearings ever since it set sail, will be replaced with a different concept once Massara departs. Mr. Secchi’s menu here tilts more heavily toward the sea, specifically coastal Campania, yet deploys local bounty like Montauk shrimp with calamaretti, fresh tuna tonnato, and cold pasta Amalfi-style.
48 East 26th Street, 646-212-0913, massara.nyc.
Brooklyn Granary & Mill
Whole grains, farmed responsibly in the region and milled on-site with millstones made in Vermont, are the ingredients for Patrick Shaw-Kitch’s baked goods. Loaves made with assorted grains, whole-grain baguettes and croissants, strawberry-rhubarb hand pies, savory tartlets, and sweets like buckwheat-ginger cake are now sold at the simple ground-floor bakery attached to the mill he started in April with his wife, Laura Huss. His flaky croissant leaves a common white flour version is the dust. The grains, and also legumes and oils from upstate New York, are sold wholesale and retail.
240 Huntington Street (Smith Street), Gowanus, Brooklyn, brooklyngranaryandmill.com.
The Standard Soda Shop
For summer, the piazza in front of the Standard hotel has been turned into a bright soda shop in the round. Fountain and diner fare for breakfast, lunch and dinner, plus cocktails, are served from the circular bar, with scoops of Van Leeuwen ice cream dispensed from a vintage Airstream.
The Standard, High Line, 848 Washington Street (13th Street), standardhotels.com.
Branches
Patty Palace
The chef Kwame Onwuachi has increased his presence at Lincoln Center for some of the summer, through Aug. 9, as part of the cultural center’s Summer in the City program. In addition to his highly rated Tatiana in David Geffen Hall, he has stationed a food truck on the plaza selling curry chicken patty sandwiches on coco bread with green aioli, jerk barbecue sauce and ginger cabbage slaw. A mushroom patty is coming. Patty Palace is already at Citi Field, and will be added to the Time Out Market lineup near Union Square in the fall. The Lincoln Center collection was organized by the Infatuation.
iDen & Quanjude Beijing Duck House
Canard à l’orange is no more in the glittering room that housed La Grenouille for decades. But now there’s Peking duck that will set you back $128, without caviar. Andy Zhang, an entrepreneur who has one of these with a Michelin star in Vancouver (there’s a chain dating back to 1864 in China), bought the building from the Massons who founded La Grenouille and has retained the décor. Though duck is the highlight, there’s also lobster prepared in several ways ($158) and braised fish maw ($88).
3 East 52nd Street, 212-604-9999.
BarChef
For cocktails there is the three ingredient purist, but also those who seek complex, inventive mixology. They should be thrilled with this import from Toronto. It’s on a third floor glass-roofed space with shelves holding herbs and spices and the Empire State Building looming above, where the cocktail maestro Frankie Solarik, in partnership with Mino Habib and Mathias Van Leyden, has a team concocting balsam fir cream, spherifying Campari, and infusing Johnnie Walker Black Label with beeswax and other elements for seasonal, Instagram-ready drinks. Alongside is a fairly hearty food menu of oxtail potstickers, tallow shishito peppers, Wagyu rib-eye and lobster tails.
21 West 35th Street, third floor; barchefnewyork.com.
Closed
Bar Boulud, Épicerie Boulud, Boulud Sud
Daniel Boulud’s trio of dining spots across from Lincoln Center have put their instruments in storage until late fall. Boulud Sud has been closed for more than a year but now, the real estate devoted to all three the group will be redesigned by Rockwell Group to reopen as a big brasserie with a sweep of bay windows, an open kitchen and, tucked in back of what had been Bar Boulud for nearly 20 years, a lounge. There is no name as yet.
Chefs on the Move
Danny Bowien
A founder of Mission Chinese in San Francisco, and the founder of the New York location, has teamed up with Stephen Starr’s restaurant group. He’s tasked to overhaul Buddakan, the elaborate Asian restaurant that was founded in Philadelphia and landed in Chelsea Market nearly 20 years ago. As culinary director, he is working with Mr. Starr on all aspects of the restaurant, even surveying the Chinese restaurant scene across America. But it’s too soon to know how it might change. “The restaurant will stay Buddakan,” he said in an email.
Shopping
Crate & Barrel X Daniel Humm Collection
Chefs with autographed kitchenware are commonplace, but Daniel Humm of Eleven Madison Park is involved in creating and endorsing on a larger scale. The collection for Crate & Barrel of more than 30 pieces includes a stoneware donabe, cutting boards, dinnerware, table linens, candles, serving dishes and even furniture, starting at $9.95 for a glass bowl and $15.95 for a nice highball glass. A generous double-walled glass tea mug ($14.95) is typical of the collection’s simple functionality and fine aesthetics. Most pieces are in neutral tones with touches of soft green, a shade selected by Mr. Humm to reflect sports cars of the 1960s.
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Florence Fabricant is a food and wine writer. She writes the weekly Front Burner and Off the Menu columns, as well as the Pairings column, which appears alongside the monthly wine reviews. She has also written 12 cookbooks.
The post Haymarket, From a Saga Alum, Takes a Global Approach appeared first on New York Times.
