I moved to Portugal and married a tour guide. Here are the 5 best places he’s taken me that tourists usually miss.

Eleven years ago, I flew to Portugal on a whim with one small suitcase. I thought I’d stay for a month or two, but once I settled into my small Airbnb in Lisbon’s old town of Alfama, I felt at home and happier than ever.

A few weeks later, I joined a walking tour in a bid to get to know the city better. I became friends with the guide, a young Portuguese man named Rafael, and we fell in love and got married a few years later.

Since then, we’ve traveled extensively around the country together. Here are five of my favorite places he’s taken me in Portugal that tourists often overlook.

Monsanto feels like a fantasy novel come to life.

Imagine a village on a steep, rocky hilltop where stone houses are nestled between huge boulders — that’s Monsanto, located near the Spanish border.

When I visited, I felt like I’d stepped into a fantasy novel, so it’s easy to see why parts of “House of the Dragon” were filmed here.

The village is home to some fantastic hiking trails, so I recommend bringing walking shoes to take in the stunning views. I saw one of the most breathtaking sunrises of my life here, which was very much worth waking up early for.

In Sabugueiro, you’ll share the mountain paths with goats.

Sabugueiro is a small village at the top of the Serra da Estrela mountain range. We spent a week here, and I loved it.

The stream was crystal clear and I enjoyed hearing jangling bells as goat herds walked past me on the trails. The locals were also very friendly and served stewed goat and other regional delicacies in rustic restaurants.

Together, there’s something about this town that makes you want to just slow down and breathe in the wildflowers.

Amarante has more to offer than quirky pastries.

The town of Amarante is located about 40 miles inland from Porto, and the first time I visited, penis decorations fluttered above the streets (yes, you read that right).

Street stalls also sold phallic-shaped pastries to passersby to bring them luck in love while floats revering São Gonçalo (Saint Gonzalo) drifted by.

The celebration was all part of the São Gonçalo festival, a vibrant blend of pagan and Catholic influences, fireworks, and drums that I absolutely adored. The festival is held annually the first weekend in June.

That said, I’ve returned to Amarante outside the festival, too, and think the otherwise tranquil town is worth a visit any time of year.

Tomar is steeped in Templar history.

Tomar is a charming city located about 90 miles northeast of Lisbon. It was founded in the 12th century by the Knights Templar, a Catholic military order.

The city’s centerpiece is the imposing Convent of Christ, which was founded in 1160 and located within Tomar Castle.

Both sites are open for tours and filled with intricate architecture, layers of symbolism, and a palpable sense of history that makes me want to study every stone carving.

You can also walk along the walls of the castle to get a bird’s-eye view of the surrounding area. Even after several visits, I continue to find something new to explore.

The Panóias Sanctuary reveals eerie Roman rituals.

I’m drawn to strange and slightly eerie places, so I really enjoyed my visit to Panóias Sanctuary in Vale de Nogueiras. The site is dedicated to Serapis, the Greco-Egyptian god of the underworld, and dates back to the late 2nd or early 3rd century AD.

Despite the lack of infrastructure or signage (which only adds to its mystery, in my opinion), it offers a fascinating glimpse into ancient rituals. The sanctuary features human-sized cavities carved into a granite outcrop, along with inscriptions in Latin and Greek.

In my opinion, few places bring you so close to the darker parts of the ancient world like this.

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