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If you don’t already have an exfoliation routine, spring — when the weather warms up and skin gets naturally oilier — is a great time to start one. “Exfoliating helps get rid of all the dead cells sitting on the surface of the skin,” says the aesthetician Shani Darden. “Without removing that layer, the skin can look dull, and it’s difficult for other products to penetrate,” plus your pores can become clogged, potentially causing acne. Below are tips for a gentle yet effective approach, from Darden and two other experts: the chef Imogen Kwok, who exfoliates regularly to keep her pores clear after long days in hot kitchens; and the florist and gardener Kitten Grayson, who’s figured out the best scrubs to slough off dirt and sweat.
Imogen Kwok, 33, food artist and chef
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When I was training in restaurants like Eleven Madison Park and Blue Hill at Stone Barns in New York, I’d sit on the subway on my way home with my skin covered in frying oil. Now, on days when I’m both prepping and hosting a dinner, I’ll bring micellar water, Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant and cotton pads, so I can reset my skin midway through the night.
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I do at-home peels once a week. Tata Harper makes this insane Resurfacing Mask that changes my skin texture every time I use it. I also use the Ordinary’s Glycolic Acid 7% toner every two days in the evening because it’s pretty mild, and Dr. Barbara Sturm’s Enzyme Cleanser every so often. When I’m traveling, I prefer exfoliating pads that come in a case, so I don’t have to bring a liquid toner in a bottle — Peter Thomas Roth makes good ones.
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I also use the Ordinary’s Glycolic Acid on my lips every month or so. You put on a tiny amount and then you “baste,” which means smearing on a thick balm, like La Roche-Posay’s Cicaplast Baume. If you leave it on overnight, it’ll remove all the weird flaky stuff on your lips. It’s really effective.
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Though I like chemical exfoliants for my face, I prefer physical scrubs for my hands. I’m constantly washing them at work, so my skin is now quite tough. To help soften them, I take a long soak in the bath and use a moisturizing scrub, like Bamford’s B Vibrant Tonifying Body Polish, which contains coffee grounds and coconut oil.
Shani Darden, 50, facialist
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I only like chemical exfoliants, such as salicylic or glycolic acids, for my face. They’re more effective and gentler than physical exfoliants. When used incorrectly, scrubs can cause redness and irritation, and ultimately destroy your skin barrier.
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When it comes to choosing the best product, you’ve got to know your own skin. Lactic acid is great for dry skin because it’s a bigger molecule and doesn’t penetrate as deeply, whereas salicylic acid is good for oil and congestion because it can [more thoroughly] clean out the pores. The frequency also depends on your skin type: Most people should exfoliate once a week, but those who are really oily should do it twice a week.
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I use my Triple Acid Signature Peel once a week and leave it on for up to two minutes — but just do 30 seconds if your skin’s super sensitive. I formulated it based on the one I offer in my Beverly Hills clinic; it’s a mixture of glycolic, lactic and mandelic acids, and it’s basically like having a facial at home. I also love Dr. Dennis Gross’s Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel pads; they’re easy to use and work on all skin types.
Kitten Grayson, 38, floral designer and biodynamic gardener
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The weather can be quite brutal to my skin in the winter. I get dry skin around my nose and mud on my face, and a weekly scrub helps to get rid of it. I’ve never really gone the chemical route — I’m an old-fashioned girl — but I scrub gently to prevent any damage to my skin.
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Now that we’re entering spring, I love lighter, more floral and fruity formulations, including Fresh’s Sugar Face Polish and Neal’s Yard’s Honey & Orange Face Scrub, whereas in the winter, I enjoy heavier, grainier scrubs, like Pai’s Virtuous Circle Eco-Bead Exfoliator, which has sustainable jojoba beads inside.
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I usually exfoliate on Sunday nights, massaging a scrub into my skin using small circular motions, before I get into the tub. Then I’ll wash it all off during my bath. Exfoliating away the dead skin feels like letting go of the past week; it prepares me for the week ahead.
T Recommends
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CosRX AHA/BHA Toner Clarifying Treatment Toner, $20.
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Medik8 Press & Glow Daily Exfoliating PHA Tonic, $35.
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Chanel Le Masque, $75.
These interviews have been edited and condensed.
The post How to Exfoliate Your Skin appeared first on New York Times.
