Scrolling through TikTok lately, everyone’s FYP is flooded with videos on how to use hair rollers, how to do sock curls, the best heatless curlers—the list goes on. If you’ve always found hot styling tools like curling irons challenging (the game-changing T3 Curlwrap will automatically curl your hair for you, FYI), it may have you wondering: Are hair rollers the answer? But where to begin?
Hair rollers are a nod to the ‘90s, when voluminous, bouncy curls à la Cindy Crawford reigned supreme. Good news: This bombshell hairstyle is back, and we couldn’t be happier about its revival. Celebrity hairstylist Priscilla Valles—who styles the hair of Kim Kardashian, Hailey Bieber, and Dua Lipa and has her own extensions line with Glam Seamless—has noticed an uptick in clients asking for volume. “I’ve been encouraging [this hairstyle] a lot too,” she tells Glamour. “Not everybody wants that styled, curled look. I feel like I talk about [hair rollers] in every interview. We’re bringing them back. I love that look. It’s soft ’90s glam.”
Naturally, we want to learn everything there is to know about how to use hair rollers and get big hair once again. Though Velcro rollers and hot rollers are affordable and accessible (pick them up in virtually any drugstore or Sephora), they can feel intimidating to use them for the first time. Rest assured, using rollers isn’t as scary or difficult as it seems. All you need is your preferred hair roller, a hair dryer, and your favorite styling product.
Valles’ only warning? Make sure the hair rollers aren’t too small. “You really want to have that natural look,” she says. “If you think of the little ladies with their roller sets, they are so small. They have so many of them. You want the opposite of that.”
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Ahead, Valles breaks down how to use hair rollers and shares a step-by-step guide for achieving the bouncy, beautiful hairstyle.
How to use hair rollers
As it turns out, it’s actually pretty easy. Just take it step-by-step. First, divide up sections of your hair. Valles recommends starting at the top of your head and working your way down. Regardless of whether you have short hair, long hair, curly hair, or fine hair, “I always like to start [curling the hair] on top because I want that to get the most heat and sit the longest, because it’s usually where you want most of the volume,” she says. You don’t have to be exact with the sectioning; just make sure each section has a good chunk of hair (more on that later). “Do big sections here, because we’re not trying to have a really curly look,” she says.
Next, choose your hair roller size. For a ‘90s blowout, it’s go big or go home. Valles recommends using the biggest rollers in your set for the back of the head and one size down for the sides. (She likes to use three-inch and two-inch.) “I go for the biggest ones, just because I really just want the volume at the root with a little bend on the ends. Obviously the tighter you go, the tighter the curl is. But I don’t really want a curl.”
But this part is all customizable. For a more “done-up” look, you can do your whole head in the same size and direction. Alternate for more natural-looking, beachy waves. If you like the ringlet look (tighter curls), use smaller rollers. Medium-sized rollers will give you soft, loose curls or mermaid waves. Choose which type of curl you’d like and then pick the right-sized roller from there. Next, we’ll break down how to use hair rollers based on three popular types: Velcro rollers, hot rollers, and foam rollers.
Drybar High Tops Self-Grip Rollers
Nordstrom
Conair Xtreme Big Curls Hot Rollers
Ulta
How to use velcro rollers
Do you put rollers in wet or dry hair? It depends on the type of hair roller you’re using. When using Velcro rollers, you want to style slightly damp hair (about 90% dry) or fully dry hair. Then, use a volumizing product like a mousse or spray to get that extra oomph in your blowout. Apply the product to the roots and run through the ends.
No matter which type of hair roller you’re using, the way you roll is key. If you want to get volume, make sure you’re rolling under the hair to create that bump. “Go under at a 90-degree angle,” Valles says. Take a large section—about the same width as the roller—and roll under the hair.
Always, regardless of type of hair roller, roll your hair inward and toward your head. You want to start at the the end of your hair, going upward to your roots.
Once you have rolled up to the root, you can use a clip or pin to set the Velcro hair roller, but Valles has an insider tip: She prefers simply pushing the hair roller into place and using the Velcro to secure it (the hair and Velcro essentially adhere to each other to keep the hair roller in place). The minimum time to leave your Velcro rollers in will be 10 minutes for loose waves, but you can leave them in much longer (30 minutes is usually a good idea).
When you’re ready to remove your hair rollers, if your hair is damp, blow-dry all over until the rollers are warm and your hair feels dry. But do not take them out immediately. Instead, post-blow-dry, wait for them to cool down (this means they have set) and then you can remove them. After that, you can grab some strong hold or extra strong hold hairspray or texturizer to help keep the look all day. Lastly, brush or finger-rake out your curls, and head out for the rest of your day.
Here’s an extra tip: If you’re using Velcro rollers on dry hair, and you want some extra volume and body, Valles recommends trying hair extensions. New extensions shouldn’t be wash or dried, but they can handle hot tools and heat (aka you can use them with hot rollers too). If you aren’t ready to commit, Valles recommends the clip-in extensions from Glam Seamless, which are easy to style and install. Just make sure the hair you’re choosing is the right shade. “You always want to match the ends [of your hair to the extensions] because that is where the extensions will be extending from,” she says. “Usually your ends will be half a shade lighter than the rest of your hair.”
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With hot rollers, it’s best to style using completely dry or mostly dry hair. Because you’ll be putting heat on your strands for this, make sure to apply heat protectant spray while your curlers are warming up (it’s a non-negotiable to help avoid heat damage). Whether you’re using a spray, cream, or oil, the key is to apply your heat protectant evenly throughout your hair, with a special focus on the middle and ends to prevent damaged hair.
For hair that doesn’t hold a curl very well or gets a bit of frizz, you may want a bit of extra help. Valles suggests heating the hair with a curler before using the heated rollers. “I use a curling iron,” she says. After curling each section of hair, “I put the hot rollers in and let it set,” she adds. The two-step process is simple: Grab the section and curl it like you normally would with a curling iron. Release the curl and, while the hair is still hot, roll it back up in the hot roller upward from end to root and inward toward your face. Pin or clip the hot roller in place.
The amount of time you’ll want to leave them in varies (check the directions on the packaging if you’re unsure), but like Velcro rollers, you can usually leave heated rollers in your hair for 10 to 30 minutes. The longer you leave the hot roller in, the curlier your hair will look, so take that into consideration. Waves are achievable in closer to 10 minutes, while tighter ringlets likely won’t take shape until about 30 minutes in (or even longer if you have thick hair).
Once unrolled, like with Velcro rollers, spritz some hairspray or texturizer to set the curls in place further. Same thing again: Brush or finger-rake them out, and you’re ready to go.
R + Co Dallas Thickening Spray
Dermstore
Kérastase Keratine Thermique Heat Protectant
Amazon
How to use foam rollers
Foam rollers are the spongy, softer heatless curl option. They tend to work best when you leave them in overnight. This way, the curlers work to set your hair while you’re sleeping. Plus, since the foam rollers are softer than Velcro, they’re much more comfortable to sleep in.
For any nighttime hair-washers, make sure to let your hair dry until it is damp or completely dry before using your foam rollers for the night. If you curl your hair while it is still soaking wet, it likely will not dry overnight, so it won’t hold any curl the next day (you wouldn’t want to do all that work for no result). Either air dry or blow dry your hair to get it ready for the foam rollers. If you’re running behind and only have a few hours before you have to get ready, you can leave the foam rollers in for a minimum of one to two hours (but note that they really shine when used overnight).
Once you’re almost ready to remove the hair rollers, like with the Velcro rollers, you can use a hair dryer all over if the hair is still damp. Again, after you blow-dry, let the hair cool and then remove them. Spray a bit of hairspray and/or texturizing spray, run a round brush through your strands, and you’re good to go. “When you brush the hair out, that’s what creates even more of a softer [look],” Valles says.
Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray Extra Strong
Ulta
Amika Fluxus Touchable Hairspray
Sephora
The post How To Use Hair Rollers, According to a Celebrity Hairstylist appeared first on Glamour.
