Jun Takahashi‘s UNDERCOVER continues to thrive season after season, proving that the Japanese designer is a masterful creator. After announcing its change onto the womenswear schedule for Fall/Winter 2025, UNDERCOVER celebrated its 35th anniversary on the runway with plenty of commemorative motifs.
Instead of honoring his most iconic designs, Jun Takahashi chose the collection he considered to be his best. His selection was reflected in FW04: “But Beautiful…Part Parasitic Part Stuffed.” Inspired by the dynamic, inflated, and plush artwork by Anne-Valerie Dupond merged with Patti Smith’s unforgettable style, FW25 looks to recreate the look and feel of stuffed animals.
A singular white ensemble walked under a blazing spotlight to mark commencement, featuring floor-length sleeves and gold jewelry that came to life in movement. The collection quickly grew into UNDERCOVER’s next Champion collaboration, previewing fitted crewnecks, cuffed bottoms, and oversized hoodies in solid primary hues. Flying butterflies were transformed on exposed outerwear lining and printed on additional loungewear with nature in mind. Soft coats and patchwork denim hone in on brand classics, while frayed cotton oozes relaxation on structured suiting.
The collection kept us on our toes while referencing the past with horned shoulders and bold confetti jackets. Takahashi closed the collection with a few additional jaw-dropping looks, including two inflated balloon dresses that stole the show. Angels and devils battled in shimmering gowns before ending with two exaggerated feather suits emulating ruthless birds.
Take a closer look at UNDERCOVER’s FW25 collection in the gallery above.
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