Not every designer that goes to Central Saint Martins becomes a legend, but there’s a good chance that if you google most fashion legends, they went to CSM. For those who are unfamiliar, the program can boast the likes of Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, Phoebe Philo, Stella McCartney, Riccardo Tisci, Simone Rocha, and more.
London Fashion Week kicked off Thursday night with the program’s annual graduate collection showcasing this year’s designers Petra Fagerstorm, Jake Zhang, Tuuli Turunen, Yaoyao Huang, Phinyophummin, Isidora Durovic, Liu Xueyang, Kelechi Mpamaugo, Jane Fu, Lucas Moretti, Zihan Miracle Liu, Oriol Clavell, Lily Teiger, Jude Braganza, Scar Kennedy, William Palmer, Jacek Gleba, Alison Keogh and Kate Dewar.
Petra Fagerstorm and William Palmer were awarded the prestigious L’Oreal Professionnel Award. Fragerstorm, who opened the show, founded her namesake label under the Swedish Fashion Council after years of experience working for major brands, including Acne and Balenciaga. Palmer also worked in the industry prior to entering the M.A. program working as a designer at Craig Green, Walter Van Beirendonck, and COMME des GARÇONS.
More than one designer, including Fagerstorm, noted AI as both a starting point and a tool to rebel against for their collections. Alison Keogh and Kate Dewar fed AI generic images of menswear staples, like collared shirts, and attempted to recreate the choppy iterations it produced.
Other standouts in the lineup included 23 year old Catalan designer Oriol Clavell. His collection examined queer identity through his use of draping, 3D printing, and reworked materials. He is also set to debut during this Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in Madrid.
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