Titled “Interface,” UNDERCOVER‘s FW25 lookbook embarks on a journey beginning with austere black tailoring and ending with a cacophony of neon-lit references to 1970’s Krautrock and whimsical monsters. At once futuristic and nostalgic, Jun Takahashi‘s collection marking the 35th anniversary of his brand reminisces on the designer’s punk roots, while refining his contemporary codes.
With models crowned by glowing fluorescent halos, the lookbook begins with a run of looks following a black-on-black patchwork thread. Traditional menswear classics including a two-piece suit, a double-breasted coat, a parka, and a button-up feature visible taped stitching from various angles, creating a clean re-worked effect.
Then, Takahashi illuminates the dark studio with smoke machines and neon lasers, scattering technicolor wires on the ground. The collection introduces imagery from Krautrock bands, including a white Faust sweater and a sleeveless Moebius hoodie. Standing out in the graphic-focused portion is a puffer jacket featuring a full-bleed print of a cyborg Sci-Fi illustration.
At this juncture of the collection, models are styled in leggings layered with brushed knit shorts, and further down the line, plaid skirts – once again recalling Takahashi’s early Punk references. Plaid fabrics move their way into tweed suit jackets and slim trousers, before making way for new patterns featuring monster illustrations by the late Spanish artist Josep Baqué.
Bringing a balanced contrast to masculine-leaning looks, the collection’s accessories focus on various garden gloves, bowler hats, and caps printed with delicate florals and adorned with opulent jewels. By the end of the collection, turquoise, electric blue, yellow, and red have conquered – largely replacing the pared-back monochrome palette where the journey began.
See the UNDERCOVER’s full “Interface” FW25 collection in the gallery above.
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