Like clockwork, Rick Owens returns to the Palais de Tokyo to reveal his latest Fall/Winter 2025 collection. Titled “Concordians,” this season sees the prolific desinger give a nod to the small industrial town of Concordia, Italy, which is also where the brand’s factory has resided for the past 22 years.
The designer reflects on his many trips to Concordia over the past two decades as this collection picks up in 2003 when Owens and Michèle Lamy decided to leave Los Angeles for Paris in an effort to look for production and distribution outlets in Europe. Regular trips to Concordia have become a staple in Owens’ life and in the collection’s release, Owens shares that he once slept on the couch in the factory itself in the first 15 years in Concordia so that he could “immerse myself in the rhythm of an industrial production schedule that I was new to.” He would also stay in a near by hotel “in a no frills serial killer room,” living out of a suitcase. Fast forward to today, Owens recently embarked on a customization project with Rimowa which made him reflect on his carry-on days. While he spent many years living out of a suitcase, he is reminded to not rely on stuff, “I can need less but make choices count more. I want to depend on less things but make them as supernatural as possible.”
The collection is heavily informed by Owens’s take on his essentials. With “Concordians,” Rick has designed a selection a of “everything” looks that allow you to mindful of what you can pack but offer versatile asethetics through and through. Owens’ villainous treatment continues to come through from Dracucollared coats made of strong vegan tanned calf leather along with flared jeans in bronze layers of foil and wax on denim. Rick’s platforms are reconfigured for workwear this season, aptly named the Factory and featuring rounded soles and a non-slip finish. As a nod to his journey from California to Europe, Owens had to get used to the winters. Thermal underpins most looks as it “changed [his] whole attitude about winter when [he] moved from California. Shredded and collaged jeans were otherworldly while jackets and coats are cut in a British mélange wool felt blended with kemp. The collection was set the soundtrack of “Heroes” by David Bowie, which Rick Owens has claimed to be the “soundtrack to a lot of our lives.” He paints a picture of “a village train station on a cold foggy night on your way somewhere to work on a weird and wonderful future.”
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