Showcased against stark white studio walls, Grace Wales Bonner has approached her FW25 collection with an air of delicate romance and soulful nostalgia. This season the British designer demonstrates a meticulous approach to tailoring and fine embellishments, while further expounding upon her affinity for 20th-century Black style with the help of Chicago-based artist Theaster Gates.
The first elements that draw attention are the monochromatic portraits, courtesy of Gates’ conceptual project, The Black Image Corporation. With a selection of images from the Johnson Publishing Company, the collection honors the many ways that Black women have shaped global culture.
From the archives of publications like Ebony and Jet, photographs by Moneta Sleet Jr. and Isaac Sutton are given new life in overdyed prints and denim jacquard, An eye-catching cobalt blue shirt serves as the canvas for an endlessly repeating glamour shot, perhaps a subversive reference to Warhol’s Marylin Monroe prints. Elsewhere a matching denim jacket and shorts set features the profile of a model running hands through her hair. In another look comprised of beige workwear trousers and a bright yellow and brown puffer vest, the aforementioned glamour shot is enlarged front and center on a white tee.
The collection’s outerwear is particularly notable – introducing a special collaboration with English menswear manufacturer Crombie Ltd. The brand collaborated with Bonner on a traditional grate coat crafted out of navy wool with brown leather piping and golden buttons. Elsewhere in the outerwear lineup, a beige Japanese canvas work coat features prominent gold lock closures, and an Italian leather flight jacket boats curly long-haired fur accents on the collar and cuffs.
Delicate touches are found in jewel-toned knitwear and a lace-like woven fabric featured on a white top and matching shorts. The pink-toned hues are also found on a vintage “Infinite Soul” athletic t-shirt and as an accent in a new colorway of the adidas Originals x Wales Bonner Jewel Mary Jane “Gold.”
See the full Wales Bonner FW25 collection in the gallery above. As of the time of writing an official release date for the collection has yet to be unveiled, so stay tuned to the official Wales Bonner web shop for updates.
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