On Wednesday evening, Florence’s Giardino dell’Orticoltura, a small botanical garden with an antique greenhouse and horticultural library on the outskirts of the city, became MM6 Maison Margiela land for Pitti Uomo 107.
There, a beaming white conservatory glowed in the arboretum’s darkness, where the French diffusion label’s staff greeted showgoers in uniforms just as bright. Inside the planthouse, luminous white lights lit up even crispier white walls, and beverages were served on tables equally blank.
It all felt referential of Maison Martin Margiela’s Pitti Uomo show for Fall 2006, when then-creative director Sebastien Meunier conducted a “white-out” of his own by renovating Teatro Piccini’s architecture and flags with matte paint. Back then, the House told Gap press that the tone was a “force through fragility,” and the hue bled through the corresponding collection.
But unlike its archive-nodding venue, MM6’s Fall 2025 collection told a different—almost entirely opposite—story on the other side of the color wheel: “Black as a whole spectrum of nuances and attitudes, from burgundy to gaffer tape.”
Models strolled along the perimeter of the glass house with suavity, revealing the menswear line’s exercise in tailoring and sensuality. Stars appeared as prints. Faux mink stared down notes of lurex with ladylike finishes. Modular gloves and motorcycle helmets were much more masculine. Pagoda shoulders took from jazz legend Miles Davis’ wardrobe. And a scintillating aqua suit could not go unnoticed.
This was MM6 Maison Margiela’s modern menswear manifesto, a seesaw on which the man is both the subject and the object of desire. That’s anything but black and white.
See MM6 Maison Margiela’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection in the gallery above.
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