Seasons change. The sun sets early, and the evening temperatures are cool, even if afternoons are sunny. It’s nice to settle into autumn menus.
Salad is still an important player, but it may be about that time for sturdier leaves to step up. Chicories, with their slightly bitter flavor, make a pleasant seasonal alternative to tender greens.
Long cherished in Italy, they aren’t an uncommon grocery item in the United States these days. Ruby-red heads of radicchio are the most familiar style available, but others — like Belgian endive, curly endive (frisée) and escarole — are also obtained relatively easily. Even rarer kinds, like speckled Castelfranco and other colorful varieties, are showing up at farmers’ markets now, too.
Recipe: Radicchio Salad With Walnuts and Pears
Mix and match them, or stick with one kind. All come together for a satisfying salad, whose bitterness is offset by the sweetness of pears and candied walnuts. You may want to employ a bit of sweet vinegar, such as sherry or balsamic, or consider a touch of fragrant walnut oil in the dressing.
As for pears, firm Red Bartletts are a good choice and can be sliced without peeling. Other fine choices are ripe Comice or d’Anjou, and I find peeling them shows off their succulence to better advantage.
Recipe: Baked Polenta With Roasted Mushrooms
To follow, a piping-hot polenta torta, layered with mozzarella, Parmesan and Gorgonzola, and baked in a springform pan, is an excellent option.
It’s best to prepare this torta well in advance, at least several hours ahead of serving or preferably the day before. This allows it to firm up, which, when reheated, makes it easier to cut into attractive wedges. In addition, there’s no last-minute stress.
This torta is very good served with roasted mushrooms, specifically ordinary white or button mushrooms, or wild if you happen to have them. These are best made while the torta is getting its second bake. For a final boost in flavor, toss the mushrooms with a gremolata mixture — chopped parsley, garlic and lemon zest — just before serving.
Recipe: Chocolate Amaretti Cookies
For dessert, a platter of cookies is always welcome. Chocolate amaretti, made with almond flour, cocoa, egg whites and a dash of almond extract, are easy to prepare. The only admonition is: Don’t overbake them. They need a soft center. Once done, these almost beg for an espresso, or a small glass of dessert wine as accompaniment. But they’re also fine alone — ready to become a new favorite. With their crisp exterior and chewy interior, what’s not to love?
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