Proportion is key to pulling together an outfit, but given the different lengths for dresses, skirts and pants these days, what does that mean for winter coats? There seems to be little margin before a long coat becomes frumpy, and though cropped coats look great, they offer little coverage. Is it possible to strike a balance between warmth and style? — Andrea, Washington, D.C.
Of all the garments in a wardrobe, a coat may be the most fraught. Especially a winter coat.
It is a basic, but it is probably the most visible item anyone owns, the first thing that announces identity to the world. It has to be functional — to keep you warm, to have pockets that can hold stuff, to protect you from the elements. Generally, it has to do (at least) triple duty: go from work to weekend to party. And it has to do all of that over the span of many years, because in order to check all of those boxes, a coat is almost always an investment item.
Most of us cannot afford to have entire coat wardrobes that change according to fashion, body shape or the outfit worn underneath. Most of us need our coats to transcend trend and enter the realm known as “timeless.”
And that means most of us need a single coat to work with, … well, everything else we own.
The choice can be especially tricky when it comes to length, as you point out. There are waist-length coats and thigh-length coats; mid-thigh coats and knee-length coats; just-below-the-knee coats and shin-length coats and ankle-length coats. In its last show, Gucci even featured trench coats that dragged along the floor like a train.
The obvious answer would seem to be compromise: Go for mid-length. But that can end up being the worst option: a coat that is neither long enough for the functionality of full coverage, and the psychology of safety and sweep, or short enough for freedom and stride.
Generally, the designer Joseph Altuzarra said, when I asked for his recommendation: “You either want your coat to be longer than your dress or your skirt or consciously cropped. Otherwise it just looks a bit weird.” It looks wishy-washy.
He recommended one of two styles: a military-esque greatcoat, which has a certain rigor and heft to its line, and usually hits at the upper ankle, or a pea coat that ends at the upper thigh.
Each has attitude in its own way (especially if you turn up the collar), each is practical enough for everyday but chic enough to handle a fancy affair (especially in a weighty navy wool), and each solves the proportion problem. The greatcoat does so by providing full coverage, though it can be left open on warmer days both to catch a breeze and to convey breeze, and the pea coat by creating a harmonious balance between torso and legs.
You just have to decide how much material you feel comfortable wearing and how much drama you want in a coat. But given that each style has been around for more than a century, you can be pretty sure that whichever you choose, it won’t go out of style. That’s protection of a different kind.
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