Some refer to it simply as “the Geneva show.” Others default to an older iteration of the watch fair, calling it S.I.H.H. (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie).
But everyone, from first-time invitee to seasoned collector, seems to agree on one thing: Preparing for a week of debuts, appointments and conversations — otherwise known as Watches and Wonders Geneva — takes months.
The first four days of the show, from April 9–12, are strictly by invitation only. So the initial effort has to be convincing one of the 54 brands exhibiting this year to register you. The alternative is attending during the three public days, April 13–15, which require a ticket (an adult pays 70 Swiss francs, or $78, for Saturday or Sunday admission, or 50 Swiss francs, or $55, for Monday admission; ticket packages and discounts are available.)
Here, a group of collectors, ranging from show newbies to veterans, weigh in on preparations, including must-take items and best practices at the fair.
Packing Essentials
“A bag without a wheel is a death sentence,” said Cameron Barr, 38, the founder and chief executive of Craft + Tailored, a Los Angeles watch retailer. “I always take Rimowa bags, because in every major city in the world there are service centers.”
And as he was scheduled to arrive in Geneva April 7 for a nine-day stay, that bag was to contain: under eye cream from Baxter Finley (to combat the effects of jet lag); Baudoin & Lange loafers (“with an elegant rubber sole,” he noted); a couple of suits by Mark Cho, co-founder of the Armoury; and, of course, his own personal loupe.
Mr. Barr said he has “learned some lessons” that he intends to put into practice in this, his second year at the show.
First, he plans on “getting into the country and get into the time zone and my flow,” because Geneva is nine hours ahead of Los Angeles. He aims to spend that time going to museums, meeting with brands that are not attending Watches and Wonders, and personally delivering two watches — a Rolex Daytona and a Rolex Explorer II with a cream dial — to clients.
As for his own wrist, he intends to bring four to six of his timepieces — likely including his Tudor Snowflake, a Breguet Pebble (or “Cushion Case”) in white gold, an 1989 Franck Muller Master Calendar and a Cartier Baignoire — and he does not disdain double wristing, or placing a watch on each wrist. “I have yet to put one on my ankle, but if it’s an interesting piece that I want to show somebody,” he said, allowing his voice to trail off speculatively.
What Not to Wear
As the name and format of Watches and Wonders Geneva has changed and expanded, so has the dress code and list of events.
“I remember the first year we went, it was either a black, navy blue or gray suit with a white or blue shirt and a tie,” said Gary Getz, 68, a member of the NorCal 6, the name of a well-known group that started with six watch collectors who were living in Northern California at the time. “God forbid you wear brown. That was 14 years ago.”
Jeff Kingston, 77, another NorCal 6 member and a show attendee since 2003, said with some pride that he has never packed a suit or sport coat, but instead wears a “nice shirt” each day.
And as for the all-important question of what to wear on your wrist, Mr. Kingston said,“it’s folly to think you have to wear the brand you’re meeting with in a multibrand show. It’s silly to chase that.”
Yet Mr. Barr of Craft + Tailored acknowledged, “I’ll be looking at everyone’s wrists the way a cobbler looks at people’s shoes.”
That said, he cautioned showgoers that, while watch spotting can be just as entertaining as the novelties themselves, “I feel like there could be pressure for someone attending this mecca for watches event to overthink what they put on their wrist. I never succumb to that. It’s always, what am I feeling today? Elegant? Funky? It’s a flow feel.”
On Arrival
“You know the movie ‘Midnight in Paris,’” Allen Soong asked during a video call from Turks and Caicos, where he was on a watch trip in early March, “Owen Wilson’s character is exactly how I feel going into Watches and Wonders. Like I’m wandering into a group of people who are so passionate; they are the great artists of the day. All these watchmakers and collectors, debating each other and joking around, and me enjoying them in their prime.”
Mr. Soong, 55, has been attending the Geneva trade event since 2009 and has an interest in early watches from the Grönefelds, Vianney Halter and Ludovic Ballouard, to name a few.
He also is one of the NorCal 6. And that crew’s secret? A shared spreadsheet of appointments, meals, logistics and events that goes back to 2010 and ensures the men can maximize their time, both as a squad and individually.
“Watches and Wonders is very much a team sport,” said Michael Hickcox, 50, another member who has been attending the trade show, on and off, since 1998, in part thanks to his godfather, Mike Dunn, a renowned collector. “It’s really daunting the first year. Even just getting your orientation, but people are super generous. Sometimes it’s hard to make your own appointments, but it’s easy to make friends.“
“People take the show for granted a little now because international travel is more common and the internet brought people together,” added Mr. Hickcox, who now lives in London. “But because of the forums and now Instagram, there are so many people who don’t see watches in person anymore. But seeing them in person is a different experience. You end up loving something you hated in photos, disliking something you loved in photos.”
Although the doors open at 8:30 a.m. at Palexpo, the massive convention center in Geneva where the event takes place over 75,000 square meters, each of the NorCal 6 members has his own daily schedule.
Mr. Getz has maintained the same opening day routine year after year. “I go through the gate, turn left, see what the big watch is and grab a beer and pretzel at the Lange booth. It’s a superstitious thing for them and I indulge.” (A. Lange & Söhne always has a big debut, and the brand traditionally considers that the more beer and pretzels it serves, the more successful the fair will be.)
Bart Carey, 61, a crew member who has been coming for the past 13 years, always takes a morning run around Lake Geneva (weather permitting). An ophthalmologist who has gone from vintage Rolexes and Patek Philippe complications to more recent pieces from Kari Voutilainen and Rexhep Rexhepi, Mr. Carey made sure to mention that “a must after most days” is a round (or two) of Negronis at the Leopard Bar in the lakefront Hotel d’Angleterre.
And Mr. Kingston, who lives most of the year in Sun Valley, Idaho, made a point of mentioning he intends to step outside Palexpo to see what some non-exhibiting watch brands are doing around the city. For instance, some of the independent brands plan to show their models at the Beau Rivage hotel, while others will invite collectors and enthusiasts into their factories for tours.
Sumei Shum, an avid collector who is a newcomer to Watches and Wonders, has her own plan: a yoga practice each morning. The 55-year-old Singapore resident said she will be packing her travel yoga mat and mini-humidifier for her eight-day visit. And she looks forward to picking up an Armin Strom timepiece that has been waiting for her arrival, one of what is likely a handful of watches she will travel with during her stay in Switzerland.
Although it will be her first year at the fair, she already has reached an important realization: “How do you not double book? It is impossible. I can plan all I want but I also want to get caught up in the fervor of things happening and people I will meet. I have a schedule but I don’t want to be too stuck on it.”
After the show, Ms. Shum plans on heading into the nearby Crans-Montana region to do some hiking. “It’s always nice to plan a vacation post-watch event. With so much adrenaline pumping, having some down time to enjoy the fresh air is a must.”
Eat It Up
“Remember to eat,” Mr. Getz said. “It sounds crazy, but have a plan in mind to get away from the show and consume in a different way.”
Although they have never met, Mr. Barr echoed Mr. Getz, nearly word-for-word: “In Geneva, reservations are easy to cancel, but hard to get.” (The 2023 show drew 43,000 visitors and 5,400 retailers, according to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry.)
Ms. Shum said she would like to make a dinner reservation at F.P. Journe Le Restaurant, the 52-seat spot that the independent watchmaker François-Paul Journe opened in November.
As for Mr. Kingston, he said that he likes the show, but loves the final supper.
“We all want to see the important brands and important indies, but year after year, the one thing that’s a constant for us, the one thing I really enjoy is the NorCal 6 closing dinner,” he said, adding, “It’s just the gang, no other events. It’s wonderful to express your own taste and have the keener eyes disagree. It informs your own appreciation and understanding because at the end of the day, a watch is more than just a thing on your wrist.”
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