Sleeper trains can be many things — comfy, cramped, awe-inspiring, mundane, isolating, social, luxurious, and hardly bearable.
I’ve spent nearly 200 hours traveling 6,400 miles on overnight trains in the US and Europe, and I’ve fallen in love with it.
I prefer long-distance trains over any other form of travel because, unlike most things in my life, they force me to be still and enjoy the view. And even the most insufferable nights on the rails have helped me truly appreciate the great rides, like the one I took on a frosty day in January 2025.
I boarded an Amtrak in Denver for a 15-hour ride to Salt Lake City. The train was cozy and social, and the views were striking and diverse. It was one of the best experiences I’ve had on the rails.
Ride along with me.
A double-decker sleeper train
The California Zephyr runs from Chicago to San Francisco on Amtrak’s Superliner fleet, which is two stories tall and comprises coach and first-class sleeper cars, as well as a dining car and an observation car.
I booked the lowest-tier accommodation in the sleeper car, a roomette, for $400.
From Denver to Salt Lake City in a private sleeper cabin
The roomette was a 23-square-foot space with a sliding door. Inside, two seats folded out into a bed, and another bunk pulled down from the ceiling. There was also a foldout table between the seats, a shelf, a mirror, and a thin closet.
I had access to four shared bathrooms and a shower in the sleeper car, and my ticket included meals.
Hour 1: Boarding and breakfast
I arrived at Denver’s Union Station at 8:30 a.m. for an 8:45 a.m. departure on a snowy day in January. I headed straight to the train, which was already waiting for me.
There were two boarding lines on the platform — coach and first class, which refers to sleeper accommodations.
The coach line had about 10 people, but I whizzed through the empty first-class line and found my car easily, thanks to the big signage.
I stepped on board and found my cabin on the first floor. There wasn’t much room to stand in the small space, but I easily stretched out by reclining both seats and using one of them as a leg rest.
The recently upgraded vinyl seats were cushy and more comfortable than any train seats I’ve booked in the US.
My first-class attendant came by to introduce herself and let me know I could call her at any time using the button on my seat.
She also took my lunch reservation (noon) and told me that breakfast in the dining car on the second floor ended at 9 a.m., so I needed to hurry.
The train took off at 8:45 as I sat down for breakfast. A couple and I were the only remaining passengers to feed. As is typical on an Amtrak train, we were seated together in one booth.
I ordered French toast with sausage, topped with syrup, powdered sugar, strawberries, and whipped cream. It was pretty decent for a train meal. I thought the French toast was fluffy and the strawberries tasted fresh.
While waiting for my meal, I chatted with the couple headed to California after visiting their kids in Denver. They were in for a 36-hour ride on their first overnight train.
Hour 2: No WiFi, no worries
By 10 a.m., I realized that this train route didn’t have WiFi, and I had no signal. But none of that mattered to me once I looked out the window.
The scenery heading west from Denver reminded me of the Swiss Alps. The train moved through tunnel after tunnel. Each opened to reveal panoramic views of snow-capped mountain forests. I was constantly in awe of my surroundings. I couldn’t look away.
Around this time, the attendant asked if I wanted to make a reservation for the observation car, a communal space on the second floor with two rows of windows bleeding into the ceiling for optimal views.
The observation car doesn’t typically require reservations, but it gets crowded when the train passes Rocky Mountain National Park in the early afternoons. Later, in the observation car, an attendant said managing the crowds with 30-minute time slots was easier. I took the 11:30 a.m. slot.
Hour 3: Fresh air
We stopped for the first time since Denver at around 10:50 a.m. in Fraser, Colorado. The train didn’t always stop long enough for passengers to step outside, so I took the opportunity to get some fresh air.
It was sunny and crisp on the snow-covered platform. I stretched my legs as others posed for pictures and checked their phones.
It was easy to spot who was continuing on the journey and who had arrived at their destination by looking at their baggage and attire. Some passengers scurried out in the snow in sweatshirts and shorts, hopping like rabbits and rubbing their arms to warm up. Others were bundled up from head to toe with suitcases in hand.
After about five minutes, a whistle blew, signaling everyone to board.
Hour 4: Epic views before lunch
At 11:30 a.m., I headed upstairs to the observation car. It was much brighter than the other cars, especially since it was sunny. It was also packed to the brim. I was seated next to a quiet couple. Together, we spotted highland cows in a valley surrounded by forests.
The dining car was right next to the observation car. I strolled in at noon and was seated with a particularly social group. One was a high-school student visiting her sister at college. Across from us was an older couple who had taken overnight trains before. They were traveling to California.
We discussed our travels as I dined on a Caesar salad with grilled chicken. It was on par with good, budget-friendly restaurants I’d been to before, and it ended up being my favorite dish of the trip.
Hour 5: Kicking back in the cabin
After a fulfilling lunch and fun conversation, I returned to my cabin for some downtime. The winter wonderland views continued as I read a book in my cozy chair.
Hour 6: Time to stretch
Just before 2:30 p.m., the train stopped for another break in Glenwood Springs, Colorado, for about 15 minutes.
I had time to walk the length of the train. It was a bit warmer outside, so I stepped onto the platform without my jacket.
Hour 7: A change of scenery
By 3 p.m., the passing landscape started to transform. The snow melted as we rolled alongside rivers and streams, and the trees were smaller and sparser in southwestern Colorado.
My attendant came by during this time to ask when I wanted to have dinner. Since I was already getting hungry, I opted for the earliest slot: 5 p.m.
Hour 8: Grateful for curtains and skincare
Around 4 p.m., the sun started hitting my window in various locations along the length of the room. That’s when I noticed how much the curtains came in handy.
Blocking the sun wasn’t limited like it is in a car with a visor. I could slide the two curtains back and forth, scrunch them up, and spread them out to block glare.
Before dinner, I went to the bathroom to wash my face and noticed it had been cleaned since my last visit. Then I returned to my cabin to moisturize in front of the mirror. The crisp Southwestern air made my skin drier than usual, so I was glad I packed my full skincare routine.
Hour 9: Dinner with a view
I strolled into the dining car at 4:59 p.m. It was empty except for employees who appeared confused about my arrival.
“I’m here for my dinner reservation,” I said.
“You’re supposed to wait for the announcement,” one of them called out. Oops.
Seconds later, one employee welcomed guests to the dining car over the intercom, and another told me to sit at the first table.
After a talkative breakfast and lunch, I wasn’t feeling too chatty. Luckily, the trio of young women I shared the booth with seemed to have the same idea. We said hello to each other and then dined quietly. All of us took pictures of our meals when they arrived.
The dinner was three courses. I had a Brie salad, followed by a flat-iron steak with mashed potatoes, steamed veggies, and a wine sauce. I was surprised by how flavorful the steak was; it was cooked perfectly for me.
The dessert was a decent white chocolate blueberry cobbler cheesecake. It was no New York cheesecake, but it was tasty, and I ate nearly all of it.
Hour 10: Providing my own turndown service
When I got back to my room after dinner, I was ready to lie down and get cozy. I reclined the seats in my cabin to form the lower bunk.
An hour later, the attendant announced they could provide turndown service. But I’m no stranger to converting train bunks. And since I’d be getting off the train around midnight, I wanted to get a few hours of rest beforehand.
The bunk was more spacious than most I’ve experienced on trains. And the cushions were surprisingly easy on my back.
The blanket provided was extremely soft — one side felt like velvet. The pillows were dense and fluffy. I only needed to rest one under my head, as I do at home.
Hour 11: TV in a cozy bed — just like home
Watching TV before bed brings me comfort — especially when I’m traveling.
That’s why earlier in the trip, when I had service, I downloaded a few episodes of “Curb Your Enthusiasm.”
I stretched out on the cot, put my headphones in, and soaked up the comedy as we rode through the night.
Hours 12-14: Night naps
The last intercom announcement at 9:45 p.m. informed passengers that 10 p.m. to 7 a.m. are quiet hours.
After a few TV episodes, I put the screen down and closed my eyes. I drifted in and out of sleep for the final hours of my trip.
Hour 15: A midnight arrival
We arrived in Salt Lake City just before midnight. An attendant knocked on my door about 10 minutes before to let me know we were close, and I started to gather my things.
I exited the train at the back of a long platform, which was brightly lit despite the late hour. I watched other departing passengers greet their loved ones at the station as I called an Uber to take me to my next adventure — a stay at one of Salt Lake City’s only five-star hotels.
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