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When the Jacket Is the Whole Outfit

September 23, 2026
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When the Jacket Is the Whole Outfit

The first days of fall are often a fun time to see how people get creative when confronted with the need to wear more clothes. Since the fashion calendar begins in New York in early September — technically still summer — we don’t tend to get a glimpse of what that looks like until London Fashion Week, which is usually cooler.

On the street, there were a variety of jackets — sleek, billowy, technical — that were also functional for wind and rain. The ones that stood out had contrasting zippers and high collars betraying little underneath, a departure from a recent trend of showing lots of layers. These jackets were complex enough on their own, completing an entire look when paired with a skirt and pair of boots.

Speaking of skirts (and shorts), there seems to be no consensus on how modest or sexy to go. Show guests mostly wore them at or below the knee. On the runway, however, the hemline remained markedly high in spring collections from Toga, Mulberry and McQueen (the latter in minidress form).

London also delivered on the ethereal quirkiness fashion lovers have come to expect from the city’s fashion week. Erdem and Bora Aksu played with the tropes of ruffle and tulle they are known for, while Chopova Lowena showed its witchy dress-up collection in the basement of a bowling alley. Edeline Lee’s dance-centric presentation turned a basketball gymnasium into a runway and ballet studio with a broken fourth wall.

Simone Rocha, meanwhile, presented an all women’s wear collection that stayed true to her form while also giving us a little of everything — big-collar jackets, poufy silhouettes and the shortest of shorts.

Jackets Working Overtime

Knee-grazing Skirts

Foundational White Tees and Tanks

Ruffles, Ruching and Tulle

A Moment for Tutus

Hair Adornment

Fluff!

The post When the Jacket Is the Whole Outfit appeared first on New York Times.

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