You probably know the most important things you’re supposed to do for your skin — keep it clean, moisturized and slathered with a broad-spectrum sunscreen.
But there are also things dermatologists wish you would stop doing, including covering your face in too many salves and serums, taking scalding hot showers and, yes, popping zits.
“One of the biggest misconceptions I see is the idea that skin care has to be aggressive or complicated to be effective,” said Elizabeth Bahar Houshmand, a Dallas-based dermatologist.
Here are five things dermatologists say they wish you would avoid — and what to do instead.
Taking hot showers
Sorry, hot-water lovers, those scalding showers can disrupt your skin barrier by stripping the natural fats and oils from the skin, increasing dryness and irritation, especially in the fall and winter months, Houshmand said.
Houshmand said lukewarm water is better for your skin, though she acknowledged she likes to warm up in a hot shower in the winter. To make the transition to lukewarm water easier, try adapting your skin to cooler temperatures over time.
Immediately after showering, apply a moisturizer while your skin is still damp to lock in the moisture.
Indulging in a hot shower on occasion, particularly if you don’t have sensitive skin, shouldn’t cause any harm, Houshmand said.
Overdoing it with your skin care
More products and a more complicated skin care routine don’t necessarily mean better skin.
Layering multiple products with active ingredients — such as an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) to exfoliate, a retinoid to reduce fine lines and wrinkles and a vitamin C serum to brighten the skin — can be irritating and negate the benefits, research suggests. For her own routine, Houshmand uses about three products in her daytime regimen and three products in her nighttime regimen, she said.
Think a cleanser, followed by a moisturizer and sunscreen during the day, and a cleanser, serum and moisturizer at night.
If you have dry or sensitive skin, try pairing a moisturizer with an active ingredient to address a particular skin care problem, such as hyperpigmentation, or alternate products on different days, she said.
Using multiple products at the same time also can make it difficult to know which one may be working, or which one may be causing adverse effects, Houshmand said.
Additionally, an aggressive skin care routine, including over-washing, scrubbing and over-exfoliating, can strip the skin of natural oils and damage the protective skin barrier, said Joshua Zeichner, associate professor of dermatology at the Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City.
You should aim to wash your face no more than twice per day, using a gentle, hydrating cleanser, then a moisturizer. “When it comes to cleansing, that squeaky-clean feeling that many people are looking for after they wash their face actually represents post-wash dryness and is harmful,” he said.
If you feel you need a double cleanse — a deep clean to remove heavy makeup or excessive oil — Zeichner suggested using a water-based cleanser followed by an oil-based cleanser to reduce the risk of overly drying out your skin.
Use care with exfoliation, too. Choose either a chemical exfoliator, such as alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), or a physical exfoliator such as a scrub containing gritty particles to remove dead skin cells. But don’t combine the two different types, Zeichner said.
Sleeping in your makeup or sunscreen
Ideally, before bed, you should use a gentle cleanser to wash the day’s grime off your face, followed by a moisturizer and maybe a product or two to treat an ongoing dermatologic problem. When you sleep in your makeup and sunscreen — not to mention all the oil, sweat and environmental pollutants — it can lead to skin irritation, clogged pores and breakouts.
But it’s not always feasible to do an entire skin care routine before bed. For a one-night skin care hack, Houshmand recommends micellar water, a water-based cleanser that contains microscopic molecules that help remove dirt, oil and makeup. Pour some onto a cotton pad and gently wipe your face and around your eyes. Houshmand prefers a thorough rinse with cool water, though she said it’s not necessary.
For another option in a pinch, you can use makeup-removing wipes, but be sure to choose a product intended for sensitive skin, as some wipes can irritate the skin, said Susan Taylor, a professor of dermatology at the University of Pennsylvania Perelman School of Medicine. “I know we often say don’t use those wipes, but using a wipe and getting most of that makeup off is better than not doing anything,” she said.
Popping your pimples
It can be hard to let your blemishes be, but picking, popping or squeezing them can cause further irritation and inflammation, increasing the risk of skin discoloration, permanent scarring and more.
Pimples are a mix of dead skin cells and sebum, an oily substance that lubricates the skin, as well as bacteria. When you pop them, the oil and bacteria can leak beneath the surface of the skin, causing additional inflammation, sometimes leading to an abscess or infection, Taylor said.
That trauma also can leave a dark mark known as hyperpigmentation, or even a scar, which may be depressed or indented, she said.
Instead, treat the source of the acne, Houshmand said. Pimple patches create a physical barrier to keep you from picking the pimple, and some also contain ingredients to help calm the blemish. Medicated creams containing benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid or retinoids may help resolve it more quickly.
And some pimple pastes and drying creams contain sulfur to help shrink it, Houshmand said.
If a blemish becomes notably large, painful or warm to the touch, consult a dermatologist, who can treat it for you.
Assuming ‘natural’ products are better
Skin care and hair care products labeled “natural” or “clean” are not necessarily gentler, safer or more effective, Houshmand said. Research suggests that essential oils, botanical ingredients and fragrances — which can be found in facial moisturizers, body oils and serums, shampoos and conditioners, even deodorants — can cause irritation, inflammation or an itchy rash known as allergic contact dermatitis.
Although not all products containing these ingredients are bad for everyone’s skin type, “if you are someone with very sensitive skin or have any inflammatory conditions, you have to do your due diligence,” Houshmand said.
For instance, “someone with eczema should not simply choose a product because it says ‘for sensitive skin.’ They generally want gentle, fragrance-free formulations that support the skin barrier and minimize potential irritants,” she said.
Houshmand said the best regimens are “individualized, particularly for people with conditions such as eczema, rosacea, acne or hyperpigmentation.” You should ask your dermatologist to help you identify which ingredients and formulations are best for your skin, then build a regimen that addresses any conditions without irritating or inflaming your skin, she said.
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