The U.S. Senate race in Texas took on a new flavor this week with what might be the most important kitchen table issue of this election season: Just what exactly is a proper breakfast taco?
On Tuesday, James Talarico, the Democrat in the race, visited a local taco spot in Austin, and to the surprise of the patrons, he was accompanied by former President Barack Obama and Gina Hinojosa, who is running for governor of Texas.
It’s hard to imagine what could possibly steal the spotlight away from the three politicians. Unless, of course, you live in Texas. Then it might be an equally potent trio: a potato, egg and cheese taco.
Mr. Talarico ordered two of them and plunged the internet into taco turmoil.
Gov. Greg Abbott’s campaign quipped that the order lent credence to rumors that Mr. Talarico is a secret vegan (ignoring, perhaps, the cheese). Some mocked the choice as boring, like ordering “white bread with mayo,” or said their favorite Austin taqueria was more authentic. Others questioned the timing: a breakfast taco around 2 p.m.?
American political history is filled with food faux pas and debates, from former New York mayor Bill DeBlasio’s cutting his New York pizza with a knife and fork to Rick Perry, former governor of Texas, eating a corn dog a little too enthusiastically at an Iowa state fair. There was former President Gerald Ford’s tamale snafu and Senator John Cornyn’s brisket debacle. In 2022, former first lady Jill Biden apologized for saying the Latino community was “as unique as the breakfast tacos” in San Antonio.
But when it comes to tacos, Texans love a good food fight. Beans or no beans? Corn or flour tortillas? And, of course, what makes a “proper” breakfast taco.
“It’s a totally legit order,” Mando Rayo, who hosts the Tacos of Texas podcast, said of Mr. Talarico’s choice.
“If you’re from Texas, you’re going to probably order a potato, egg and cheese,” he added.
Mr. Talarico’s pick occupies a special place in taco lore of Texas, a sort of middle ground of Tex-Mex between the “Tex” (bacon, egg and cheese) and “Mex” (chorizo, egg and cheese), Mr. Rayo said.
Mr. Talarico is trying to end a 30-plus year losing streak for Democrats statewide in Texas, and will face either Mr. Cornyn, the longtime incumbent, or Ken Paxton, the state’s outgoing attorney general, in November. Intentionally or not, Mr. Talarico’s taco choice reflects the middle-of-the-road political note the campaign is hoping to strike.
“He’s trying to appeal to those moderates,” Mr. Rayo said.
José R. Ralat, the taco editor at Texas Monthly, said the choice of venue also struck a balance.
“Taco Joint is neutral territory,” Mr. Ralat said. “It’s a non-offensive Austin taqueria that creates buzz and talking points while not being controversial enough to create disingenuous outrage.”
Save that sort of taco outrage for California, where a Republican in the race for governor praised, Steve Hilton, praised the “street tacos” from a chain restaurant.
As to the question of when it’s proper to eat a breakfast taco, Mr. Rayo scoffed.
“A breakfast taco is great whenever you want it,” he said. “Who doesn’t want breakfast for dinner?”
He added, “It’s also great for hangovers.”
Lauren McGaughy is the Texas politics correspondent for The New York Times, writing about the ways that policymakers in the second largest state are changing lives for their citizens and influencing American politics.
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