To me, the spectacle that has come to define the couture runways was exemplified in moments at each end of the shows in Paris this week.
The first came at Schiaparelli, when several models emerged in feathered garments that gave them wings — some around their faces, others at their backs — and the air of mythical creatures. The second moment came at Viktor & Rolf, where a model was dressed in real time like a kite, with pieces from other looks shown on the runway, and then lifted by cables to float above the crowd, a theatrical feat met with a standing ovation.
Other high points of the week included the Dior and Chanel shows. Together, they offered high contrast between Chanel’s pared-down elegance and Dior’s elaborately constructed garments. The Dior show also delivered a bit of high drama because of some polarizing guests. Also surely polarizing to some was the presence of fur, a material that more fashion world fixtures have lately moved away from. I saw it in the form of big coats, collars and other flourishes, like the trim of a skirt.
Fuzzy Flourishes
Feathers and Fringe
Soft Ruching and Pleating
Sparkly Sequins and Stones
Big Fur Coats
Coats Trimmed in Fur
Faces Framed by Corsages and Bows
A Zoo’s Worth of Prints
Not Your Average Neck Ties
Sleek Leather Gloves
Simbarashe Cha is a Times photographer and visual columnist documenting style and fashion around the world.
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