Andrew Werner needed to stand out.
In 2014, he was hired as a photographer to cover a gala at Cipriani’s Midtown event space. He wanted to catch the eye of his subjects, but couldn’t find any appropriate boutonnieres “that were in line with my black suit and also spoke to my personality.”
Taking matters into his own hands, he found a fabric shop in Manhattan’s garment district and purchased some burlap. Once home, he handcrafted the material into the shape of a rose, and painted it fire engine red.
“That was my first lapel flower,” said Mr. Werner, whose parents’ families had roots in jewelry and men’s suiting. Compliments were plentiful. Phone inquiries followed. And soon after, orders.
Almost 2,000 customized boutonnieres later, Mr. Werner’s accessories have adorned the lapels of well-known people, including Al Roker, Bill Clinton and Jessica Carter Altman. There have also been collaborations with the New York Botanical Garden celebrating Van Gogh’s Flowers exhibit; custom cashmere collections for Bergdorf; included in Oprah’s Favorite Things, and of course, weddings.
“People love to take unused real estate and incorporate personality into a mundane, pedestrian outfit,” Mr. Werner said.
Mr. Werner, 38, runs Fleur’d Pins out of his one-bedroom apartment in Manhattan’s Tudor City, in addition to his work as a photographer. Depending upon the style, size and material used, his boutonnieres range in price from $95 to $495.
The interview was edited and condensed for clarity.
Why are boutonnieres having a moment?
The flower, while intrinsically feminine, changes when a guy puts it on. In this new age of gender fluidity, these boutonnieres create an openness and the breaking of cultural norms. It’s a combination of maximalism, personal expression and an opportunity to be and feel seen. It’s a gesture of optimism.
Why are people choosing to wear your boutonnieres at their wedding?
Flowers are extremely expensive now, and they’re fragile — everyone is hugging and kissing, and they get smooshed or broken. My flowers retain their structure and last forever. They can become heirloom pieces, passed down to other generations, or they’re worn to other events.
How are they worn?
Most grooms I work with wear my pins on the traditional left side, the side of their heart. So it’s wearing a piece of beauty on this massive day, that conveys love, warmth and receptivity, but is also customized to the couple.
Others are going bold. I’ve been making bolo ties following the trends in music and Beyoncé’s tour. Some people are wearing clusters, three or more together, or putting them up and down their lapel. Women are wearing boutonnieres in their hair or in a corsage on their wrist.
What’s your process?
Most pieces are made to order, so every flower feels intentional and personal. I ask couples about their color palette, what they will be wearing, the time of year of their wedding, where they are having it, the type of materials they want to wear, and the kind of flower they like. Then I go shopping at fabric and leather stores. Each piece is then cut and assembled by hand.
What types of materials do you work with?
Traditional ones like silks, satins, cashmere, charmeuse, suede and leathers to more opulent exotic leathers, like alligator, snake or stingray, to some creative styles of boiled wool, like you see on tennis balls, and cork.
For Van Gogh’s flower exhibit, I used Dupioni silk and a luxurious leather in deep blues, to highlight his sunflowers during his Saint-Rémy days. I wanted the blues and the cool tones, and the way the silk and leather looked together, to emulate his brushstrokes of his work, and that specific time period.
What is a memorable boutonniere you created for a wedding?
I was sent two ties, each belonged to one of the groom’s grandfathers, which I used to make these beautiful rose boutonnieres — a rose symbolizes love. These were backed in leather and were worn by the groomsmen. There’s history in these. You’re literally stitching together the fabric of someone’s old life with the new one the couple is creating.
Tony Cenicola is a Times photographer.
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