Anyone who’s accidentally smudged or chipped a freshly painted nail understands the allure of the gel manicure. The procedure, in which gel polish is applied and then cured under a lamp, results in a shiny, durable manicure that lasts around two weeks.
But in September, the E.U. banned a key ingredient in gel nail polishes called trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide, or TPO—making many people second-guess the safety of a gel manicure.
“There are definitely some potential pitfalls and dangers, but honestly, millions and millions of women worldwide use gel nails and do not have problems,” says Dr. Phoebe Rich, a dermatologist in Portland, Oregon, who specializes in the prevention and treatment of nail disorders.
The key, experts agree, is to take a few simple precautions. Before you book your next gel manicure, here’s what you need to know.
Understanding the E.U. ban on TPO
TPO is a photoinitiator, which means it starts the reaction that causes the gel polish to harden and form a solid film on your nail. As of Sept. 1, 2025, E.U. legislators prohibited its use, classifying it as a substance that is “toxic for reproduction” after several studies indicated reproductive toxicity effects in animals exposed to high levels of TPO.
But Kelly Dobos, a cosmetic chemist at the University of Cincinnati, says there’s no need to panic.
Most research into the health effects of TPO has involved feeding it to rodents or injecting it under their skin, she explains, and “that’s not really how we’re exposed to it in a nail gel.” Moreover, she says, “your systemic exposure is very low, because it’s also reacted away when you’re exposing it to that light in the nail lamp.”
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While Dobos maintains that TPO, as it is used in gel manicures, is safe, there are gel polishes on the market that don’t include the ingredient, she says. If you’re concerned, seek out a polish that uses a different photoinitiator, like TPO-L, a modified form of TPO which remains legal in the E.U.
Protect yourself from UV exposure
Both the UV and LED lamps used to cure gel nail polish emit UV radiation, which has been linked to skin cancer and premature aging.
“But then again, most of the country’s sitting outside without sunblock,” says Dr. Michele Green, a cosmetic dermatologist in New York City.
Though the UV exposure during a gel manicure is brief, it’s concentrated and can add up over time. Green advises following the American Academy of Dermatology’s guidance to apply a broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen to your fingers and the backs of your hands before a gel manicure, or to wear a pair of opaque fingerless gloves.
“Both of those are very protective,” adds Rich. “And if nothing else, it keeps your hands from aging.”
Application and removal can cause damage
People who get regular gel manicures may notice changes to their nails, like thinning, cracking, weakening, or white spots, says Dr. April Schachtel, a dermatologist with UW Medicine in Seattle who specializes in nail disease. “A lot of those things that make it so attractive as a manicure option are also the things that damage the nail,” she says.
That includes both the removal of old gel polish, which involves wrapping the fingers in acetone-soaked cotton pads and foil, and the surface preparation of the nail for the new coat, during which a technician may file or buff the nail with a mechanical drill.
“There’s no question that the 20 minutes of acetone is pretty harsh, mostly on your skin, but also on your nails,” Rich says. “Then using the drill after that to take off the extra bits that the acetone leaves behind—that’s all damaging for the existing nail.”
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And don’t even think about picking the polish off yourself. “You’re taking little pieces of the surface of the nail plate with it when you do that,” she warns.
“Once that nail is thinned and damaged, there’s nothing that you can apply to it to bring it back to its normal health,” Rich says. “You have to wait for it to grow back in from the nail matrix,” which can take about six months.
To be extra safe at the salon, says Dobos, request to see the packaging of the gel remover so you can check its ingredients. Earlier this year, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) issued a warning letter to several companies that still make gel nail polish removers containing methylene chloride, a chemical that’s classified as a “probable carcinogen” and banned in the U.S.
“If you’re concerned about what they’re using, ask, because that’s generally not right in front of you at the nail salon,” she says.
Don’t try this at home
In the years since the pandemic, the market for DIY gel manicure kits has exploded, Schachtel says. While it can be cheaper and more convenient to do your nails at home, improper application can lead to potential problems.
In most gel products, the main component is acrylates; these are monomers or oligomers, which are small molecules or chains of molecules and can come in a thick liquid form. As the gel is cured, the smaller molecules are linked together and turn into a polymer—but if any uncured acrylate monomers come into contact with the skin, they can trigger allergies in some people.
“That’s more likely if you’re doing it at home, because you’re more likely to get the liquid on the skin or have an imperfect technique for curing it,” Schachtel says.
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An acrylate allergy can present as painful, lifted nails and rashes on the fingers or face. And because acrylates are also used in a lot of important medical devices like bandages, dental implants and fillings, and bone cement used in orthopedic surgery, “it’s an allergy that people really do not want to have,” Schachtel says.
For the safest results, Rich advises getting your gel manicure at a reputable, licensed salon. “In the home, it’s not as controlled,” she says. “There’s a potential for more overuse and damage, and maybe even more light exposure.”
The bottom line
Many experts believe that gel manicures, overall, are a generally low-risk indulgence, particularly if you get them infrequently and take precautions when you do.
“I don’t tell people to never do it,” says Schachtel. “But I do think it is something that should be done in moderation.”
The post Are Gel Manicures Safe? Experts Explain the Risks appeared first on TIME.
