Retinol is one of the most effective ingredients for a range of skin-care woes. A vitamin A-based compound, it’s known to boost collagen, fade dark spots and smooth the skin’s texture, in addition to reducing acne and excess oil. “It’s a multitasking superhero,” says the New York-based dermatologist Rachel Nazarian, that’s backed up by decades of scientific research. Yet knowing when and just how to use it can be confusing. First off, retinol can cause dryness and sun sensitivity, which is why most skin-care professionals recommend starting or ramping up retinol products in the cooler months. Below, more expert-approved advice for incorporating this potent ingredient into your routine.
Who Should (and Shouldn’t) Use Retinol
Retinols and retinoids — the latter is a broader term that includes higher-strength vitamin A derivatives that typically require a prescription — stimulate skin repair by speeding up cell turnover, revealing the softer, smoother skin that lies underneath. This process can reduce the look of fine lines and wrinkles and help enhance elastin and collagen production. But while many people associate retinol with its anti-aging benefits, Nazarian also recommends it to patients of all ages who are dealing with hyperpigmentation, sun damage and, given that retinol also reduces sebum production, acne. It’s safe on all skin tones if used properly, but should be avoided by those who are pregnant, breastfeeding or experience eczema or rosacea. For those cases, Nazarian often steers patients to bakuchiol, a plant-based ingredient that’s “as close as it gets” to retinol, she says. “It can target collagen production with less irritation.” She also likes soothing peptides and growth factors for their skin-firming and healing capabilities.
Tailor to Your Skin Type
For sensitive or dry complexions, Nazarian suggests a rich but not greasy retinol cream boosted with hyaluronic acid, like Neutrogena’s Rapid Wrinkle Repair Night Face Moisturizer or SkinBetter Science’s AlphaRet Overnight Cream, which also contains niacinamide to protect the skin’s barrier and minimize redness. If you’re oily, consider lightweight serums such as SkinMedica’s Retinol Complex 1.0 and, for acne, Nazarian prefers adapalene, a retinoid that can reduce clogged pores and flare-ups. It’s available at 0.1 percent over the counter in Differin. For especially sensitive skin, the New York-based aesthetician Crystal Greene recommends encapsulated retinol formulas that absorb gradually to lessen the chance of adverse reactions. Her top pick: Marie Veronique’s Multi-Retinol Night Emulsion.
Although many brands tout the concentration of retinol in their products — ranging from 0.1 to 1 percent — that number might not be as important as it seems. “A basic retinol at 0.01 percent is effective,” Nazarian says. “You might see an earlier benefit with a higher concentration, but slow, steady lower concentrations typically work just as well in the long run and are often more tolerable.” Plus the percentage listed on an over-the-counter product could include other ingredients, the Toronto-based cosmetic chemist Stephen Alain Ko points out; companies will usually call this a “retinol complex,” which allows them to market a higher potency. Scrutinize the packaging too. Retinol, as a compound, tends to be highly unstable and can easily break down when exposed to light, says the Sydney, Australia-based chemist Michelle Wong. Stick with products in opaque, tightly sealable containers. Wong likes RoC’s Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle Night Cream, which is well suited for most skin types.
Apply Effectively
Most retinol products should be applied at night to minimize sun exposure, and on freshly washed skin that’s patted dry, not left damp. “Water-saturated skin can speed up retinol’s absorption, which might lead to more irritation,” Ko says. And stick with a pea-size amount, dotted over your face, neck and chest, Nazarian says. “A very, very thin layer is all that’s needed.” Start using retinol two to three nights a week and slowly increase the frequency, she adds, “with the goal being to use it every night.” Wong even suggests applying your retinol product like a mask initially, and washing it off after 30 minutes.
In the first few days and weeks, it’s normal to experience temporary dryness, redness and flaking as your skin adjusts. That said, if you don’t notice any tingling, don’t assume the retinol isn’t effective. “You don’t need to see peeling for it to be working!” says Nazarian. With any skin-care ingredient, but especially retinol, patience and consistency are key. “It takes about three to six months to see results, so stay committed and diligent,” says Nazarian. Prescription retinoids, such as tretinoin and tazarotene, tend to work faster, but they can also cause more redness, peeling and inflammation. Consult with your doctor to figure out which kind is best for you.
Keep the rest of your skin-care routine simple when you’re using retinol: Wash with a gentle cleanser, take a break from exfoliating peels or scrubs for the first several weeks of acclimating and avoid other potentially irritating ingredients like benzoyl peroxide or hypochlorous acid. Follow your retinol application with a calming moisturizer, preferably one rich in soothing ceramides. (Nazarian likes those from Cerave or Cetaphil.) During the day, slather on a generous layer of SPF 30 (or higher). Over time, as your skin adjusts, you might consider more potent retinoids — which can target deeper lines or more severe hyperpigmentation or acne — but stronger isn’t always better. “The goal is to find a formula you can tolerate,” says Ko, “and enjoy using.”
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