Who Decides War is reminding us of one very important lesson for its Spring/Summer 2026 collection: “Read the Room.” As Téla D’amore told us before the show, this collection came off the heels of one of the hardest years ever – both for her and Ev Bravado, as well as the world at large.
D’amore and Bravado drew inspiration from the “decay” that surrounds us, masterfully extrapolating the beauty of destruction, and the transition from “collapse and ruins” to “regrowth and renewal” to curate a gothic dreamscape of a presentation imbued with direct inspiration from broken walls, old chandeliers, and aged wallpaper. Live music came from Leon Thomas, who posted up in the middle of the Brooklyn warehouse to perform a compilation of hits and new tracks (“MUTT” included, for the final carousel of course.)
“It was really about reflecting on the state of the world right now without being so literal,” D’amore shared with us before the show, as she effortlessly multitasked, ensuring all of the hand-pressed flowers she sourced herself – most of which had been given to her at some of her highest highs and lowest lows – were perfectly configured on one of the final looks.
“There’s a lot of context here. It’s not necessarily a ‘read between the lines’ type of thing, but it’s about what you take from it,” she continued, noting that both her hardships and those of humanity comingle as the main storylines of “Read the Room.”
A reflection on what’s left after the dust settles, the collection is a sharp curation of some of Who Decides War’s most striking tailoring yet. Bravado also believes it’s the most true-to-self.
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“In past collections, I felt like I wasn’t really creating for myself, but this season is how I want to dress,” he told us backstage. “There’s a lot of new tailoring. Slimmer silhouettes than we’re known for. It’s the most intentional we’ve been with fabrication.”
D’amore also points to the womenswear when asked about her favorite pieces, stating that, while the brand has always been heavily influenced by the womenswear space, this season the focus was “nonnegotiable.”
“We’ve always been deeply inspired by womenswear and women in general, and this was a time when it was nonnegotiable that we had to have a conversation that was really deep about women and womenswear. Finally. We’ve always given a lot of energy towards the materialization of the mens’s side, so this season it was really about making sure the womenswear was up to par if not better.”
Take a closer look at the enthralling new ready-to-wear range from D’amore and Bravado in the runway images above, and stay tuned to Hypebeast for continuing New York Fashion Week coverage.
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