Sushi Zanmai
Japan’s prolific sushi restaurateur known as the “Tuna King” has debuted his first restaurant in the United States, bringing his signature focus on tuna to the heart of L.A.’s Koreatown.
Kiyoshi Kimura is a legendary and record-breaking figure at Tsukiji Fish Market — he paid 333.6 million yen, or roughly $3.1 million at point of sale, for a 612-pound tuna in 2019. The former pilot launched his restaurant empire in 2001 with Sushizanmai Honten at the Tsukiji Outer Market, where he still offers affordable sushi and prepared small plates 24 hours a day. He now has some 50 restaurants in Tokyo and throughout the world.
The new Koreatown outpost of his Japanese chain Sushi Zanmai, which opened last month along an edge of Chapman Plaza, serves lunch and late-night hand rolls, nigiri, donburi, tempura and beyond.
Much like his restaurants in Japan, Kimura’s Los Angeles sushi bar specializes in tuna, or maguro, sourced via his “Sustainable and Reserve” system: capturing grown tuna from around the world when and where they are not in danger of decline, then transporting them to his quasi-natural preserve where they swim until they are ready for harvest.
At L.A.’s Sushi Zanmai, guests are greeted by a plastic statue of Kimura, arms outstretched, then order via tablets at each table and the sushi bar. Diners quickly receive dedicated tuna sushi sets, plus six tuna varieties available via a la carte nigiri and sashimi, a range of tuna donburi, tuna hand rolls and crispy rice, and cooked tuna toban, as well as non-tuna sushi, tempura, bento, karaage, chawanmushi, mochi and more.
Sushi Zanmai is open daily from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., and 5 p.m. to midnight. 3465 W. 6th St., Los Angeles, (213) 529-4008, sushizanmai-usa.com
El Muelle 8
One of L.A.’s best new mariscos restaurants closed abruptly last year. Now it’s back in a new neighborhood and with a new format.
Sinaloan seafood specialist El Muelle 8 opened in a Downey strip mall in 2023, but the first U.S. branch of the Culiacán restaurant of the same name closed quietly the following year. During its initial run, the mariscos destination garnered praise from L.A. Times Food columnist Jenn Harris as well as taco authority Bill Esparza. Chef-partner Abel Martínez served a vibrant array of classic ceviches and cooked seafood dishes alongside his own creative spins, such as his piquant, signature take on tuna sashimi and his version of camarones roca, with breaded and fried shrimp tossed in a sweet-spicy sauce and served over lettuce and a fried wonton wrapper.
Unrelated to the restaurant’s closure, Martínez died in 2024, but his business partner and cousin, Jay Orozco, sought to revive the restaurant — this time as a more pared-down operation with an abbreviated menu.
Now El Muelle 8 can be found operating as a food truck in East L.A. with its own tent and tables, and Martínez immortalized on the truck. The team serves the former chef’s signature recipes, including shrimp zarandeados, tostadas, tacos and ceviches.
El Muelle 8 is open Thursday to Tuesday from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. 5221 E. Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 797- 0423, instagram.com/muelle8ela
Little Tokyo Farmers’ Market
A new weekly farmers market is bringing dozens of vendors to the heart of Little Tokyo, with a focus on Japanese purveyors and artists. Each Saturday find produce vendors such as Tamai Farms, Osorio Farms, Yamabushi Farms and G Farms with fresh fruits and vegetables, and many goods available via food-assistance programs such as SNAP, EBT and SUN Bucks.
The Little Tokyo Farmers’ Market, which launched Aug. 30, also features prepared-foods stalls such as Kenchan Ramen, Pupusas Delmy’s, Mister Riceball and Antipasti LA, plus a rotation of botanical skincare products, ceramics and other artisanal goods.
The new farmers market is located in Isamu Noguchi Plaza, at the Japanese American Cultural & Community Center, and is a collaboration between nonprofit Food Access LA and the JACCC.
Open Saturdays from 9 a.m to 2 p.m. 244 S. San Pedro St., Los Angeles, foodaccessla.org/littletokyo
Men and Beasts
With seasonal L.A. produce and an entirely plant-based menu, Echo Park’s Men & Beasts is reimagining dim sum. Husband-and-wife team Alex Falco and Minty Zhu honed a number of their vegan recipes at their previous restaurant, the pan-Asian Minty Z in Miami, but at their first L.A. restaurant, which opened this summer, they’re keeping the focus centered on flavors reminiscent of Zhu’s upbringing in China.
Handmade dumplings get stuffed with pork alternative, steamed monkey buns feature a molten center of “char siu” seitan and whole vegetables take center stage in larger plates such as cauliflower curry and sweet-and-sour mushrooms. Other prominent L.A. flavors weave in, such as in taro puffs inspired by elote. At brunch, try vegan dishes like bao beignets with black-sesame caramel, soufflé pancakes and breakfast sandwiches, with the option to add real egg.
Falco, who serves as executive chef, makes the restaurant’s proteins, dim sum, doughs and ice creams — in flavors such as miso corn and carrot calamansi — all onsite, while Zhu heads up the tea program and leads weekly Gongfu-style tea ceremonies.
Men & Beasts is open Wednesday to Friday from 5 to 10 p.m., Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m. 2100 W. Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 262-1781, menandbeasts.com
Seogwan by Yellowcow Kbbq
A popular Korean barbecue restaurant in Gardena recently teamed up with a naengmyeon specialist in Korea for a new best-of-both-worlds restaurant in L.A.’s Koreatown.
Yellowcow owner Monica Kim partnered with Pyeongyang’s long-running Seogwanmyeonok to create Seogwan by Yellowcow, where the signature items include Kim’s tabletop-grilled meats and Seogwanmyeonok’s signature chilled buckwheat noodles in a cool, refreshing broth.
The sturdy, springy noodles are made onsite daily with 100% buckwheat, and can be enjoyed in a classic secret-recipe, long-simmered cold meat broth, or augmented with perilla oil, spice or extra meat, and splashed with house-made vinegar. Also on offer are Yellowcow’s grilled meats such as galbi, beef tongue, spicy pork bulgogi and brisket, plus specialty items like sausage stew, crispy mung bean pancakes, soft tofu and bulgogi ramen.
Seogwan by Yellowcow Kbbq is open Wednesday to Monday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. 3460 W. 8th St., Los Angeles, (213) 277-1281, instagram.com/seogwan_by_yellowcow
Joshua Gil wants to return to Los Angeles
Amid his debilitating fight against cancer, numerous restaurateurs, food photographers and other members of the industry are rallying around Joshua Gil: a pioneering Alta California chef whose projects have included Three Flames in Westchester, Mírame in Beverly Hills and underground dining club the Supper Liberation Front. Gil has been battling cancer since 2022; in August, Gil and his family learned the cancer has spread to his brain, and are seeking help in funding his travel from Florida to California in order to resume treatment in Los Angeles.
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