Fashion model Hannah James faced a dilemma as she weighed whether to digitally clone herself.
On one hand, the 25-year-old worries digital replicas of models could render her job obsolete. On the other hand, the Los Angeles model wants to get ahead of artificial intelligence and use it to potentially make more money before it’s too late.
She partnered this year with Kartel.ai, a Beverly Hills startup that’s building a platform for brands and businesses to license the likenesses of models for a fee. Kartel.ai helps models create digital replicas of themselves that can be hired for advertising campaigns.
“It’s crazy to see what they can create in hours,” said James, who has modeled for a decade. “It’s beautiful, but at the same time, it’s scary.”
Models like James are contending with how to retain control over their careers as the rise of AI-powered tools that can quickly generate images and videos alters the creative process. Advancements in AI have made it easier to generate digital clones of models or virtual people who don’t exist in real life.
Unlike real people, AI models and digital clones don’t get sick or deal with bad-skin days. AI models can be in many places at the same time, and they don’t need a break as campaigns try different shots, locations and products.
Applying generative AI — the kind of technology used by ChatGPT — to generate and manipulate fashion shoots and other images has been taking off this year, sparking debate about whether AI will take away jobs in an industry already rife with concerns about financial exploitation.
Some of the brands experimenting with AI models have faced backlash from consumers concerned about job displacement and unrealistic beauty standards.
In the August issue of Vogue, widely considered a fashion bible, Los Angeles brand Guess had an ad featuring a curvy blond AI model in a light blue floral romper. Swedish fast fashion retailer H&M showcased the digital “twins” of some of its models in July.
While the brands received attention for using cutting-edge technology and innovation, they also faced criticism.
“Technology is definitely reshaping the modeling industry, and it’s doing so by introducing synthetic models that threaten jobs and by digitizing real people, often without clear standards for consent or compensation,” said Sara Ziff, founder and executive director of the Model Alliance, a nonprofit in New York that advocates for workers’ rights in the fashion industry.
Many models aren’t unionized because they’re often independent contractors. While the job appears glamorous, models deal with myriad challenges, including late payments, financial debt, eating disorders and sexual harassment, Ziff said.
H&M declined to comment. Guess didn’t respond to requests for comment.
Los Angeles is a hub for fashion, modeling and social media influencers. In 2024, there were 880 models employed in California, with most of those jobs in the Los Angeles metropolitan area, including Anaheim and Long Beach, according to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics. Nationwide, there were an estimated 5,350 modeling jobs that year.
The agency projects that employment of models nationwide will remain unchanged from 2023 to 2033, noting that there are cheaper options on social media or that companies could reuse images of models and products. There will still be an estimated 600 job openings for models each year because workers will switch jobs or retire.
In 2024, the median pay for a model was $89,990 a year or $43.26 an hour, according to the bureau.
Models are still trying to sort out how to get fairly compensated when brands use their digital likeness, and the rates can vary. Models may earn less from jobs their digital clones perform compared with booking in-person shoots, but they might also be able to complete more jobs without the need to travel to a location.
Ben Kusin, co-founder of Kartel.ai, said the use of AI and digital clones could help brands cut down on the other expenses tied to producing an ad campaign, such as booking travel and employing stylists to do hair and makeup.
With licensing of AI clones, models will still be paid and can choose whether they allow a brand to use their likeness.
“A lot of folks need to re-skill quickly to be able to survive what’s the upcoming transition into this new world of AI-generated media,” he said.
Brands still have to tread carefully. In 2023, Levi’s faced criticism after the company said it was partnering with AI company Lalaland.ai to create AI models with a variety of skin tones and body types, sparking questions about why they didn’t just hire more diverse models.
Kusin said he draws the line, though, at creating models that don’t exist in real life, as Guess did in its ad campaign.
Valentina Gonzalez and Andreea-Laura Petrescu, who founded the AI marketing agency Seraphinne Vallora, which worked with Guess, said they’re not trying to destroy the modeling industry.
“We’re not looking to replace anybody. We’re looking to supplement the industry,” Gonzalez said. “Just like any other industry, you open new avenues of marketing. People have the choice.”
The firm, which has 233,000 Instagram followers, created entirely new models based on Guess’ aesthetic. It also offers other services, including enabling models to digitally clone themselves. Videos of some of the AI models featured on their Instagram account have racked up more than 1 million views.
The duo, who met as students studying architecture, pointed out there’s still a design process they go through to create AI models. It involves taking photos of real clothing and models and placing those images in a database. They envision a future where human models, their digital clones and completely AI-generated models coexist.
Boutique modeling agencies such as Otto Models in Newport Beach are concerned it will become even tougher for models who have to work hard to maintain their look to compete against virtual people.
“We’re getting into the realm of replacing models with these AI virtual people,” said Tereza Otto, who co-founded and runs the agency. “That won’t bode well for our business, because there’s a certain human purity to having an actual model do a campaign.”
As for James, there still will be in-person photo shoots that she believes AI won’t be able to replicate.
“It’s important to have a vibe on set with who you’re working with,” she said.
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