For millennia, people have been dyeing their hair, but the relatively recent invention of at-home hair-coloring kits has revolutionized consumers’ ability to change their appearance quickly and easily.
Now, though, the question on budget-conscious (and, let’s be honest, the lazier among us) of whether to dye your hair at home or pay for in-salon services remains an oft-debated one. Certain types of transformations work better for DIY jobs while others are best left to the pros, though, so I spoke with four professional colorists to gather their insights on when to save versus splurge.
Is there a difference between in-salon and at-home dyes?
Few things match the thrill of pampering yourself—especially when it comes to catching the first glimpse of a freshly touched-up hair color or a dramatic transformation of your entire look. While there’s no denying the radiant glow of a professionally styled new hairdo, luxury (like anything else) comes with a hefty price tag, plus maintenance that’s not suitable for those who have a more laid-back lifestyle or are on a tighter budget.
RaeAnn Cotto, a colorist at NYC The Team Salon, understands the hassle and supports the use of at-home color, but warns individuals to be mindful of the considerable differences in quality. “There are very limited options in terms of what [hair-dye] chemicals are approved for non-licensed people, safety being one of the reasons,” Cotto told The Daily Beast.
While having a hair-dye disaster or a chemical catastrophe would be frightening enough, at-home hair dye could also wind up costing you more money and time than you might anticipate. Certain box-dye brands contain a red molecule base that Cotto says is designed not to last on the hair, causing the color to fade faster and prompting consumers to buy more dye sooner than planned.
“Salon color has a lot more variety in terms of shade/ tone range and better quality of products to ensure safety and better hair conditions overall,” explained Cotto.
How to be your own colorist
While at-home color comes with risks, there are proper ways to execute the process without fail.
“If you’re going to color your hair at home, it’s really not that easy,” Brad Johns, a former celebrity colorist and the mastermind behind Carolyn Bassette-Kennedy’s iconic beachy blondeoverlook the importance of, told The Daily Beast. Jones notes that many people who suddenly want to change their appearance often overlook a crucial step in any DIY project: reading the instructions. “First of all, nobody ever reads the side panels,” Johns said. “The side panel will say, ‘If you are dark brown, this blonde shade will make you light brown, not blonde.’ People have to pay attention to what the side panels say because that’s the truth.”
According to Cotto, whether it is done by a professional or at home, many individuals neglect the power of patience. “I think the absolute biggest misunderstanding about color in general, whether in salon or at home, is timing,” Cotto said. “Depending on how different your color goal is from what you have, or how your hair lifts with bleach, it can also mean more sessions until you reach your dream color.”
Another common mistake: overlooking the importance of sectioning off their hair correctly. “We all know how annoying it is, and what an arm workout it is, to try to see the back, but that’s where people lose patience,” Cotto warned. “Taking sections that are too big can cause uneven application and spotting. It can also disrupt timing, which can lead to hair damage.”
Whether you’ve had your hair styled at the salon or enhanced your look at home, creating a hair-care routine will help keep your color vibrant and your hair healthy. “The better you take care of your hair, the better your color will look,” says Forte. According to Forte, a common misconception about caring for color-treated hair is that clients think their shampoo and conditioner choices won’t impact their dye job. “If you’re investing in your color, it’s smart to at least invest in color-safe products which are easy to find at all price points,” Forte says.
When to lean on at-home hair dye
The decision to change your look from home shouldn’t be made so casually if you want to feel and look as good as you do when leaving your stylist. As a colorist, Cotto said, it’s easy to see how maintaining salon color can be costly, and at-home color is acceptable, but it works best for simple tasks like root touch-ups and glosses.
Bleach, on the other hand, should be left solely to the professionals. “The best and most important time to splurge on professional color in the salon is if you’re looking for a huge change,” said Cotto. “Salon color has a lot more variety in terms of shade/ tone range and better quality of products to ensure safety and better hair conditions overall!”
According to Nicole Forte, a colorist at Beauty Supply Hair Salon in NYC, any attempt to lighten dark hair to platinum blonde or simply add highlights to a few strands should be handled by a professional to ensure the best results. “The next time you see a colorist, it will likely have to be a color correction, which costs more time and money,” said Forte, also warning against the disaster that can arise as a result of using lighting products, such as the iconic ‘90s Sun-In spray.
“Definitely leave any type of bleaching or lightening to the pros,” Forte told me. “A correction costs more than an initial highlight appointment.” For someone with an all-over, solid hair color, Forte recommends using an at-home gloss or demi-permanent dye as the safest option for at-home hair care due to their ability to fade and wash out. For blondes, a clear gloss is the safest option.
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