Opening
Chateau Royale
Cody Pruitt, a Francophile who spent time in France, knows the difference between bistro, like his casual Libertine in the West Village, and restaurant, like the more polished Chateau Royale in Greenwich Village, both of which he owns with Jacob Cohen. (Neither is a brasserie, best defined in New York by Balthazar.) “I wanted comfort and nostalgia,” he said of the new restaurant with a ground floor bar and a skylit dining room upstairs. The executive chef, Brian Young, worked at the Quilted Giraffe and brings along Barry Wine’s iconic beggar’s purses. Foie gras, escargots, duck à l’orange and chicken Cordon Bleu are also on the menu, some of which is served at the bar. (Tuesday)
205 Thompson Street (Bleecker Street), chateauroyalenyc.com.
Bartolo
There’s more to Spain than paella and Basque cheesecake. Ryan Bartlow, the chef and an owner of Ernesto’s, knows it; New York is learning it, or rather, relearning it, as he’s proving with his latest venture. Years ago part of the West Village and Chelsea was a “Little Spain,” a vestige of which is La Nacional on 14th Street. It’s the neighborhood of Mr. Bartolo’s new slice of Madrid, a taverna with a wine list that’s almost entirely Spanish and a menu of tapas like anchovies with butter; tortilla de patatas; and pork belly, along with assorted rices, suckling pig and stews. The setting combines napery and velvet upholstered formality with old-world reclaimed wood. (Opens Thursday)
310 West Fourth St. (West 12th Street), 646-494-4970, bartolonyc.com
Hōp
A dress rehearsal for a winter opening on Van Brunt Street in Brooklyn is happening for this Cambodian spot temporarily camping out Fridays through Sundays through Aug. 24 at the restaurateur Billy Durney’s Billy’s Place in Industry City. Hōp’s owners, Bun Cheam and Cait Callahan, both worked at Mr. Durney’s Red Hook Tavern. The samplings from their future menu include beef skewers and fried noodles. (Friday)
87 35th Street (Third Avenue), Industry City, Brooklyn, 718-576-3556, instagram.com/billysplacebk
Foolproof
A whiskey bar with an inventory of more than 400 labels, plus a list of cocktails like a barrel-aged manhattan, classic boulevardier and a rum-based Trinidad sour, offers an excuse to settle in, not just stop for a quick shot. The bright, windowed space with exposed brick and leather banquettes also serves plates of tuna tartare, cured salmon and cucumber rolls. It’s the work of Andy Lock, who ran the bar at Gotham Bar & Grill and was a sommelier at the Lobster Club.
476 Driggs Avenue (North 10th Street), Williamsburg, Brooklyn, 914-826-2402, foolproofbk.com.
MM by Morimoto
This restaurant, by the marquee Japanese chef Masaharu Morimoto, is cutting its teeth in Montclair, N.J., with a major installation. It’s a partnership with the ambitious Montclair Hospitality Group. A follow-up in Manhattan, and eventually in other cities, is planned. Here, more than 200 diners will find a Japanese restaurant, sushi and omakase counter included, dressed for a turn as a steak house. Permutations of Wagyu from several sources, creations like tuna pizza and even tacos are on the menu. (Thursday)
193 Glenridge Avenue (Forest Street), Montclair, N.J., 862‑333‑4833, mmbymorimoto.com.
Looking Ahead
De Gustibus
On the cusp of August, it’s time to start thinking back to school, cooking school. This coming season the longstanding De Gustibus Cooking School by Miele with a mix of demos and hands-on by prominent chefs includes two demo classes highlighting drinks. Michel Roux, from a family of chefs who operated restaurants in England, will present some favorite dishes alongside samples of Taittinger Champagne on Sept. 20, 1 to 3 p.m., $175. And on Sept. 29 Chikara Sono, a renowned New York sushi master, will show his techniques while Leo Lê, a beverage director, will explain sake, 6 to 8 p.m., $150 in person, $30 virtual.
Macy’s Herald Square, 8th Floor, 212-239-1652, degustibusnyc.com.
On the Menu
Koi Vegan Sushi
With its flagship in Los Angeles setting the stage, Koi, the Japanese restaurant that’s been opposite Bryant Park for 20 years, has introduced a new vegan menu. In addition to items like vegan crispy rice, miso-grilled eggplant, a kale noodle stir-fry, and vegan vegetable tempura selections, there’s a vegan dragon roll made with shiitake mushrooms, sweet potato, tofu, and avocado, all based on recipes from Los Angeles. In addition, exclusive to New York, there’s a soy-based vegan “steak” and vegan “scallops” made with daikon atop a cauliflower purée.
The Bryant Park Hotel, 40 West 40th Street, 212-921-3330, koirestaurant.com.
Shopping
Buttercup/Silver Moon
The aroma of freshly baked challah, croissants and cupcakes mingles with exhaust fumes down Broadway. Crowds are lining up for a successor to Judith Norell’s revered Silver Moon Bakery, which closed in March after 25 years. Hazem Elgohary, the owner of Buttercup Bake Shop, purchased Silver Moon’s equipment, hired several of its former employees, has some recipes and is forging ahead with Ms. Norell as his consultant. Mr. Elgohary said soon, when he adds buttercup products (which are kosher), the buttercup name will be on the sign. “It will be clear that this is also Silver Moon, it’s what the neighborhood wants,” he said.
2664 Broadway (101st Street), phone? web?
2664 Broadway (101st Street), phone? web?
Michelin
New York, Boston, Philadelphia, California, the American South, Vancouver, Quebec
This fall, Boston and Philadelphia will join the ranks of Michelin cities when the new ratings for New York, Chicago and Washington are announced (at a date to be determined). On Nov. 3, a new region, the American South, will be added with the star ratings announced in Greenville, S.C. Vancouver’s new lineup will be revealed on Oct. 2, and for the newly added Quebec, there’s a two-star, Tanière, in Quebec City. In late June, the California rankings were published with two freshly minted three-star places, Providence in Hollywood and Somni in West Hollywood.
michelin.com.
Follow New York Times Cooking on Instagram, Facebook, YouTube, TikTok and Pinterest. Get regular updates from New York Times Cooking, with recipe suggestions, cooking tips and shopping advice.
Florence Fabricant is a food and wine writer. She writes the weekly Front Burner and Off the Menu columns, as well as the Pairings column, which appears alongside the monthly wine reviews. She has also written 12 cookbooks.
The post The Libertine Team Goes Full Francophile at Chateau Royale appeared first on New York Times.
