Summary
- The fashion world sees significant new appointments, with Meryll Rogge taking the creative helm at Marni and Matthieu Blazy preparing his highly anticipated Métiers d’Art debut for Chanel in New York City.
- Luxury brand Loro Piana faces severe scrutiny over labor exploitation in its supply chain, while Matthew M. Williams launches an independent project, and Jil Sander’s new creative director, Simone Bellotti, opts for a music video debut.
Marni Appoints Meryll Rogge as New Creative Director
Marni has officially named Belgian designer Meryll Rogge as its new Creative Director, following Francesco Risso‘s departure. Rogge, the 2025 ANDAM Grand Prize winner with prior experience at Marc Jacobs and Dries Van Noten, expressed her honor in joining Marni, a brand she has “long admired for its independent spirit”.
Since founding her own brand in 2020, Rogge has gained recognition for her distinct blend of vintage whimsy and contemporary craftsmanship. OTB Chairman Renzo Rosso praised Rogge’s ability to reinterpret Marni’s DNA with a contemporary vision that spans all brand dimensions, including accessories and interior design.
The Unsettling Cost of Quiet Luxury: Loro Piana’s Labor Exploitation Case
LVMH-owned Loro Piana has been placed under court administration for a year by a Milan court following the severe beating of a worker who demanded unpaid wages at a subcontracted workshop. Investigations revealed the facility, which produced Loro Piana cashmere, employed undocumented migrant workers forced to work up to 90 hours weekly for €4 an hour and housed illegally.
Loro Piana stated it was unaware of the subcontractors’ violations and terminated ties with the supplier. This case is part of a broader crackdown on labor exploitation in the luxury sector, with other brands like Armani, Dior, and Valentino also facing similar scrutiny. The incident underscores ongoing injustices against laborers in the global apparel supply chain, despite high retail prices for luxury goods.
Matthieu Blazy’s Chanel Métiers d’Art Debut Is Headed For NYC
Matthieu Blazy will present his first Métiers d’Arts collection for Chanel in New York City on December 2, 2025. The presentation will spotlight the artistry of Chanel’s Paris ateliers and pay homage to Karl Lagerfeld‘s final 2018 show — also held in New York. Blazy’s New York City debut is set to mark Chanel’s return to the city since Lagerfeld’s passing.
Bruno Pavlovsky, President of Chanel SAS, expressed excitement for Blazy’s return to New York, stating he will blend the city’s creative energy with Chanel’s savoir-faire. Blazy has a history in New York, having worked under Raf Simons at Calvin Klein. A visual teaser, showing a double C logo over a vintage subway map, suggests a tribute to both New York’s culture and Lagerfeld’s legacy. Chanel has not yet shared an official date for the runway presentation
Matthew M. Williams Reintroduces Himself as an Independent With New Namesake Project
Following his departure from Givenchy, Matthew M. Williams has officially introduced his eponymous project, reclaiming his independence as a creative force. The label, which he calls a “project” rather than a “brand,” focuses on crafting high-quality, wearable staples with intrinsic value, transcending trend-driven design and market pressures.
After two decades in the industry, Williams now moves towards a more personal expression, distinct from both Givenchy’s corporate demands and ALYX‘s specific streetwear aesthetic. Showing a more mature, minimalist approach, the designer highlights raw materiality and precise construction, unburdened by established brand codes. The collection includes collaborations with specialty workshops, resulting in consciously crafted pieces like Japanese denim and sturdy white tees.
Simone Bellotti’s First Project at Jil Sander Is … a Music Video?
Jil Sander‘s new creative director, Simone Bellotti, has unveiled his inaugural project for the fashion house: a captivating music video titled “WANDERLUST”. The audiovisual project, featuring ethereal electronic compositions by Italian artist Bochum Welt (Gianluigi Di Costanzo), made its premiere on Instagram.
Filmed in Hamburg, Germany, the music video conveys “a wanderlust tale happening in an everyday setting, drifting between worlds and opposites”. In an interview with Vogue, Bellotti shared his perspective on Jil Sander, describing it as a brand with “definite style” and a “complex house” that skillfully balances classicism, modernity, and lightness. This “WANDERLUST” music video serves as a compelling prelude to his highly anticipated formal debut collection, which is slated to be presented at Milan Fashion Week this September.
Acne Studios Unveils Immersive Three-Story Flagship in Tokyo
Acne Studios has launched an impressive three-story flagship store in Tokyo’s Aoyama district, directly opposite Prada‘s existing boutique. A joint effort between Creative Director Jonny Johansson and design firm Halleroed, the expansive space offers an immersive experience inspired by Tokyo’s urban fabric and the brand’s affinity for Japan.
Blending brutalist aesthetics and refined minimalism, Acne Studios’ signature pink granite is used on walls, flooring, and various furnishings. The store prioritizes an artistic atmosphere, with custom seating by Max Lamb, unique lighting by Benoit Lalloz, and expressive mannequins by Daniel Silver. Johansson also collaborated with Japanese ceramicist Takuro Kuwata, whose ceramic objects are displayed, and who created an exclusive, limited-edition capsule collection of reinterpreted Acne Studios denim for the opening.
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