It’s your hair’s turn to shine—literally. We’ve been inundated with 10-step skincare routines for the face and elaborate regimens for the body, but the market is starting to reflect consumers’ increasing desire to treat our hair with the same consideration and care, with common skincare ingredients like peptides, hyaluronic acid, and alpha hydroxy acids popping up in shampoos, conditioners, hair masks, and more. One such subcategory that has grown from this perspective is scalp exfoliants, which often promise to encourage stronger, healthier hair.
If you think the scalp-care market consists solely of ye olde dandruff shampoo, think again. This corner of the market has introduced tonics, serums, and, of course, scrubs that are specifically formulated for your scalp. But this begs the question: Do you really need to exfoliate your scalp? Before you add anything to your cart, listen to what a dermatologist had to say on whose showers should make room for these scrubs and the haircare concerns can actually be addressed by scalp exfoliation.
What does scalp exfoliation do, exactly?
Just because the skin on your scalp needs some TLC doesn’t necessarily mean you need to start prepping an extensive routine for your head, too. Scalp exfoliation is one of those things that is not an absolute must for everyone.
“Scalp exfoliation can be incredibly beneficial, especially for people dealing with buildup, flaking, or scales on the scalp,” says Oyetewa Asempa, a board-certified dermatologist. “Just like the skin on your face, your scalp can accumulate dead skin cells, sebum, and product residue over time.” This buildup can clog follicles, leading to inflammation and hair thinning over time.
While exfoliating “keeps the scalp environment clean and balanced,” Dr. Asempa notes that it is not necessary for all scalps. “For people without itching, flaking, or thick scales on the scalp, I don’t typically recommend it,” she says. People who have greasy scalps might want to add an exfoliator to their routine, but if you’re “not dealing with buildup or flaking, regular cleansing will be enough.”
If you have an inflamed or sensitive scalp due to a dermatological condition like eczema, you may need to skip this hair-care craze altogether. Dr. Asempa warns against using exfoliants, especially physical formulas, as they can exacerbate symptoms and lead to more irritation.
OK, I’m going to start exfoliating my scalp. How do I do that safely?
There are two options for exfoliating: chemical and physical. Dr. Asempa prefers chemical exfoliation, which utilizes alpha hydroxy acids like salicylic, glycolic, or lactic acid, because these formulas “tend to be gentler and more effective without causing irritation.” Physical exfoliation, on the other hand, can be too harsh on the scalp and cause microtears or irritation, though she says that some gentle physical exfoliants can work well when used with care.
If you’re going to incorporate exfoliation into your hair-care routine, don’t make it a daily habit; Dr. Asempa recommends sticking to just once or twice a week. For patients with dandruff or psoriasis, she suggests applying chemical exfoliants to the scalp approximately 10 to 30 minutes before washing the hair.
There is a growing market of scalp exfoliants that offer a range of formats, ingredients, and price points—including some gentle scrubs our editors already flagged as great buys—so you can choose your own adventure on this journey.
I’m a fan of Living Proof’s Scalp Care Exfoliator, which blends glycolic acid with beta and polyhydroxy acids to chemically exfoliate the scalp. Other products employ both physical and chemical exfoliants for a multifaceted approach, like the Inkey List’s Glycolic Acid Exfoliating Scalp Scrub, which features 7% glycolic acid and castor beads. Some brands have introduced exfoliating ingredients to their shampoos, like NatureLab’s Perfect Clean 2-in-1 Scalp Scrub & Clarifying Shampoo, which is formulated with sugar crystals.
Take the “less is more” approach
With all these glorious new launches on the market, you may be tempted to amp up the exfoliation, but as TLC once sang, you don’t want no scrubs…at least, not without doing some research first. Unfortunately, when you take an aggressive approach to scalp exfoliation, you risk damaging your scalp rather than helping it thrive.
If you found this article because you already did go full WWE on your scalp, there are some distinct cues that you’ve been over-exfoliating, says Dr. Asempa. She warns that redness, burning, increased flaking, sensitivity, or a tight, dry feeling are all potential signs that you’ve gone overboard and need to take it down a notch or two. Limit your exfoliating scrubs or serums to a weekly or twice-a-week basis to keep your scalp free of flakes and irritation.
While the scalp-care category is growing, you don’t need to rush to clean out your nearest Ulta, Target, TJ Maxx, or Sephora in the hopes of finding every scalp scrub and chemical exfoliator on their shelves. Just take it slow, do your research, and don’t be afraid to give up on a product if it isn’t working out. (I know, it’s painful. But if you give it away to a friend or family member now, you’ll be glad to have it off your hands.) Your loved one—and your scalp—will thank you in the long run.
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