Is Hyaluronic Acid Overrated? Dermatologists on What Really Hydrates Aging Skin
The beauty industry is notoriously fickle. Each week, a new ingredient seems to land on our desks, promising to hydrate this and minimize that. Every once in a while, however, a superstar ingredient endures the test of time, and no example of this is quite so ubiquitous as hyaluronic acid.
Hyaluronic acid has been featured as a hero ingredient in every format under the sun, from super-hydrating serums and makeup-locking setting sprays to drugstore lip balms and luxury face masks. But despite the beloved humectant being consistently lauded for nearly a decade as the bringer of plump, dewy, hydrated skin, I’ve heard buzzing from fellow beauty devotees who question whether this wonder acid is as effective as we’ve collectively decided it to be.
So, to get to the bottom of the matter, I tapped a pro for the final verdict on this famed skincare mainstay.
How hyaluronic acid works
First, we have to get up close and personal with the ingredient in question. Hyaluronic acid, often abbreviated to HA, is a sugar that is naturally produced in your body, according to Dr. Glenicia Nosworthy, a board-certified dermatologist and the founder of skincare brand Glo by Glen.
“As we get older, we produce less of it, which is part of why skin can start to look drier, thinner, or less firm over time,” Dr. Nosworthy explains. Hyaluronic acid is a humectant, which means it pulls in water and helps retain moisture, making your skin look plump and hydrated when applied topically.
So, is hyaluronic acid worth the hype? Yes and no. According to Dr. Nosworthy, the answer isn’t as straightforward as the question. “[Hyaluronic acid molecules] hydrate the surface of your skin, which helps temporarily create a plump, smooth look—but those results fade fast if you stop using it,” Dr. Nosworthy tells the Daily Beast. “It doesn’t fix structural issues under the skin.” While introducing a long-lost molecule back into your skin seems like a no-brainer, the issue is that most over-the-counter HAs don’t penetrate the skin deeply enough to provide lasting results.
While it’s not the magic fix it’s been glamorized to be, Nosworthy calls it a great first step. “Think of HA as a good basic, like drinking water or using SPF—it’s something most skin can benefit from, but it’s not going to erase deep wrinkles or lift sagging skin.”
The best skincare ingredients to pair with hyaluronic acid
This is not to say that all those HA products in your medicine cabinet are a total bust, or even a bust at all. Dr. Nosworthy suggests layering them with other active ingredients, which can be the key to a deeply effective skincare routine. Here are some of her favorite ingredients to pair with HA.
Polyglutamic acid: “This humectant holds even more water than HA and sits on the skin longer. Think of it as HA’s big sister.”
Peptides: “These amino acids send signals to your skin to boost collagen and help with firmness. They’re like little messengers telling your skin to act younger.”
Growth factors: “These are proteins that help repair and rebuild the skin. They support actual regeneration, not just hydration.”
Stem cell extracts: “A personal favorite, these extracts are still pretty under the radar but big in regenerative aesthetics. These help wake up your skin’s natural healing process and support cellular regeneration from the inside out.”
Vitamin A derivatives: “Ones like retinaldehyde or tretinoin stimulate collagen production, encourage cell turnover, smooth texture, and help with tone.”
The bottom line
As with any other ingredient, not all hyaluronic acids are created equal. Each formula provides one or more molecular weights of the chemical, which offer different functions. “The smaller particles can penetrate deeper into the skin, while the larger ones sit on the surface to lock that hydration in,” says Nosworthy. To get the most out of your product, she recommends finding a formula with a range of molecular weights to target multiple dermal layers simultaneously.
No matter what the ad or the product packaging says, hyaluronic acid is not a one-stop shop for more hydrated and youthful-looking skin, though it can make a great addition to nearly anyone’s skincare routine. Still, as is the case with superfoods, your results are only as good as the other elements you include in your diet (or, in this case, your skincare regimen), and you should avoid putting all your eggs into the basket of any singular ingredient or formula.
The post How to Use Hyaluronic Acid to Get Plumper, Healthier-Looking Skin appeared first on The Daily Beast.
