Summary
- As Kering as says farewell to Francois Henri-pinault and welcomes new CEO Luca de Meo, OTB Group’s Marni says goodbye to its creative director of 10 years, Francesco Risso. Elsewhere in luxury, Louis Vuitton launches its LV BUTTERSOFT Sneaker and Pitti Uomo’s 108th edition hosts Asian designer labels like Children of the Discordance for special runway shows.
- In streetwear, Nike has finally reached a settlement of an undisclosed amount with custom-sneaker studio The Shoe Surgeon, Telfar readies an interactive co-creation campaign with its customers.
Luca de Meo Named Kering’s New CEO
Renault CEO Luca de Meo will take the helm at Kering, following the announcement of Kering Chairman and CEO François-Henri Pinault’s departure. Pinault had been leading the conglomerate, which owns Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, Dior, and more, for 20 years since 2005. The appointment brings optimism to Kering, where significant struggles have taken hold, particularly with its once-dominant brand, Gucci, experiencing steep declines in sales and profitability.
The current chief executive of Renault will step down from his current role in mid-July, and he’ll take over the luxury conglomerate on September 15. Meanwhile, Kering’s current CEO, François-Henri Pinault, will maintain his role as Chairman of the Board of Directors. In a statement, de Meo said, “I would like to thank François-Henri Pinault and the Board of Directors for choosing me to lead Kering into this new phase of development. I am approaching this new professional challenge with enthusiasm, eagerness, and confidence, inspired by the strength of the Group’s brands and the expertise of its people. I am convinced that together we will continue to make Kering an essential player in the luxury industry.”
Marni Bids Farewell to Francesco Risso
After a decade, Francesco Risso has stepped down as Creative Director of Marni. Appointed in 2016, Risso significantly expanded upon founder Consuelo Castiglioni’s legacy, bringing a craft-geared ethos and vibrant aesthetic to a new generation of luxury consumers. His distinctive chunky knitwear, bohemian florals, and collaborations with artists like Erykah Badu resonated strongly with Gen Z and Millennials. Risso’s departure is part of a series of changes at parent company OTB Group, which owns brands like Diesel and Jil Sander. While Marni has not yet named a successor, speculation points to a potential return to a female perspective, with names like Martine Rose being considered for her offbeat, colorful vision that aligns with Marni’s distinct identity.
Nike Settles Legal Battle With The Shoe Surgeon Over Trademark Claims
Nike has officially resolved its trademark dispute with The Shoe Surgeon, settling the lawsuit initiated in 2024. The agreement includes an undisclosed payment from The Shoe Surgeon to Nike. Under the terms, The Shoe Surgeon is barred from using any Nike branding that might confuse consumers. However, he can continue creating unique custom sneakers, but only under conditions approved by Nike.
In a statement to Sneaker Bar Detroit, the Shoe Surgeon expressed his aspiration to collaborate with “legendary brands”. He also conveyed confusion regarding Nike’s decision to pursue litigation over discussion, while expressing confidence that a resolution can be achieved through dialogue with Nike’s new management. He emphasized that “creating defines us” and that “authenticity is stitched into our DNA,” concluding with “Where there is unity, there is victory”.
Children of the Discordance SS26 Sews Chaos at Pitti Uomo 108
Children of the Discordance returned to Pitti Uomo 108, showcasing an expressive collection of reworked garments inspired by defiant youth cultures and urban chaos. Designer Hideaki Shikama likened his design approach to DJing, focusing on remixed and “chopped-and-screwed” sensibilities.
The collection features fine tailoring in structured pieces like skirts and jackets, balanced with edgy elements such as patinated over-dye and deconstructed silhouettes. Patchwork suiting blends tonal fabrics, while dark fabric scraps are quilted into textiles for various garments. The “discordance” concept is evident in halved garments sewn down the middle, including a Japanese souvenir jacket and a graphic football jersey. The presentation concluded with an unconventional bridal look made from crumpled t-shirts, adorned with a bejeweled cross on a hood-veil hybrid.
Louis Vuitton Has an LV BUTTERSOFT Colorway for Everyone
Revealed at its FW25/26 presentation last January, Louis Vuitton has launched the release of its highly-anticipated LV BUTTERSOFT sneaker, unveiling a versatile lineup of 24 colorways — including monogrammed pairs. Paying homage to the style of the 2000s hip-hop community, Pharrell‘s latest footwear design combines the luxury craftsmanship of a dress shoe with the comfortable silhouette of a retro sneaker.
The special campaign spotlights the shoe’s key design details, including an LV logo on the lateral panel and an embossed “Phriendship silhouette” of Pharrell’s face at the tongue. Furthermore, on the back of the shoe, an embossed lobster is an Easter egg detail calling back to Pharrell and Nigo’s collaborative relationship. Crafted by Italian artisans with ultra-soft leather, the “buttery” material gives the shoe a pillow-like quality. The elevated platform soles depart from the flat-soled footwear trends offered by luxury competitors like Miu Miu and Loewe. With a silhouette verging on appearing cartoon-like, the design echoes the Minecraft-esque pixelated motifs featured in Pharrell’s earlier collections for the Maison.
You Can Choose Who Walks Telfar’s Next Fashion Show
Telfar is celebrating its 20th anniversary with a unique “New Models” series, airing as an hour-long special on June 18 at 8 p.m. ET. This innovative broadcast will feature contestants vying for a spot on Telfar’s upcoming New York City runway show. Viewers can actively participate by voting live to select the winners. Described as a blend of game show and media experiment, the series will be available on TELFARTV, Telfar’s self-owned public access platform. It challenges conventional modeling standards, aiming to redefine representation within the fashion industry by questioning who typically gets visibility.
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