One of the unexpectedly satisfying things I’ve been doing as interim restaurant critic is cooking dinner in the morning. Before I start my day, I make that night’s dinner for my husband and teenager. They’re both quite capable of making their own meals, of course. But I really miss cooking, and the acts of mincing, sautéing and simmering give me a meditative minute before the workday staccato strikes up. If I can’t be with the fam at dinnertime because I’m running from restaurant to restaurant, at least I can send, say, a panful of homemade spicy skillet ground turkey and snap peas in my stead.
This skillet dish, which was inspired by Thai larb, is an especially good thing to make early in the day because it holds up well, thanks to the sturdiness of sugar snap peas. I hold off adding the fresh mint, basil, scallion and chopped nuts until just before serving — or rather, I leave a note saying to do so. This keeps the textures as bright and snappy as the dinner conversation I’ll miss. Once I’m back to eating dinners at home, I may even use the make-ahead routine to ease the evening rush and keep myself bright and snappy at dinnertime.
Featured Recipe
Spicy Skillet Ground Turkey and Snap Peas
More food for thought:
Pasta primavera: Dan Pelosi’s classic pasta isn’t just for springtime. Use whatever vegetables are at hand to make this robustly creamy, Parmesan-rich beauty whenever the craving hits. It’s just as good in summer, when zucchini, yellow squash and red peppers are abundant and inexpensive.
Thai-style coconut curry chicken tacos: This brilliantly unexpected hybrid, courtesy of the brilliant Kay Chun, features chicken thighs cooked with toasted Thai curry paste and coconut milk, then served in tortillas with tangy pico de gallo and a squeeze or two of lime. Untraditional? Yes! But this easy crowd-pleaser earns its five stars with old-fashioned virtuosity.
Baked fish with olives and ginger: For more bold, five-star flavors we turn to Yasmin Fahr, who seasons mild white fish with chopped green olives, grated ginger root and thinly sliced lemons before baking everything on a sheet pan. The aromatics coalesce into a snappy, citrusy sauce that’s perfect for spooning over the tender fillets.
Miso-Parmesan asparagus: There’s no such thing as too many asparagus recipes, especially when Andy Baraghani brings us one so simple and elegant. Slice the stalks on the bias (which helps them cook evenly), then quickly sear them in a hot pan with a garlicky miso-butter glaze. The Parmesan sprinkled on at the end melts into the sauce, lending even more salty, savory, umami notes.
Chocolate chip cookies with honey-roasted almonds and chile: Make Laurie Ellen Pellicano’s chewy, milk-chocolate-packed cookies for dessert, or anytime a little sweetness is in order. These nutty treats are great snacks on the go, either tucked into lunchboxes or, you know, a jacket pocket to nibble on between restaurant meals.
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That’s all for now. See you on Wednesday.
Melissa Clark has been writing her column, A Good Appetite, for The Times’s Food section since 2007. She creates recipes for New York Times Cooking, makes videos and reports on food trends. She is the author of 45 cookbooks, and counting.
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