Have you ever been so exhausted you’ve skipped your skin-care routine and went straight to bed? Now imagine doing that every night. For most people, the idea might trigger fears of buildup, bacteria, oily skin, and breakouts.
But a backlash is brewing to 10-step skin-care rituals: doing absolutely nothing. No cleansers, no exfoliants, no moisturizers—no water, even. Known as the “caveman method,” the counterintuitive way of “taking care” of your skin by ignoring it is gaining traction on social media. One woman on TikTok recently went viral after saying she gave up washing her face in order to repair her skin barrier, even though the process has caused her skin to become flaky with dead skin cells.
What actually happens when you stop washing your face? Is it even safe? We asked dermatologists.
Is the “caveman method” good for your skin?
The theory behind the method is that many skin-care products can strip the skin of its natural oils, disrupt its pH balance, and alter its natural microbiome. Forgoing all that, the caveman theory goes, restores your skin to its “natural” healthy state.
However, whether this method is good for your skin, or anyone’s skin, is a complicated question, says Dr. Nicole M. Golbari, a dermatologist at NYU Grossman Long Island School of Medicine.
“Each face has its own unique and diverse microbiome,” she says. “We all have bacteria, fungus, and even tiny microscopic mites on our faces. While that may sound alarming, these microbes are part of our normal skin, and in order for our skin to function well, the skin microbiome needs the right balance of good microbes.”
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However, not washing your face can lead to an overgrowth of yeast and bacteria and cause problems like seborrheic dermatitis and inflammatory acne.
Seborrheic dermatitis, an overgrowth of the fungus Malassezia, can cause buildup of yellow scale and inflammation around the cheeks, eyebrows, and nose. A complete lack of cleansing will also lead to dead skin cells and oils, clogging up the pores.
“Skin bacteria thrive off those clogged pores, which leads to inflammatory pimples, pustules and cysts,” Golbari adds.
The risks and benefits of not washing your face
The risks of not washing your face generally outweigh the benefits, says Dr. Asmi Berry, a dermatologist in Los Angeles. “Skin minimalism can be great, but skipping all forms of cleansing is not the answer,” says Berry.
She says skipping soap can be okay for people with extremely dry or sensitive skin as long as they are still rinsing with water—but avoiding both entirely allows buildup that can clog pores, worsen acne, or trigger dermatitis.
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Besides the health concerns, unwashed skin simply doesn’t look its best. Not washing your face leads to a buildup of dead skin cells on the skin surface can make the skin look dull and uneven in tone and feel rough to the touch. If clogged pores aren’t cleaned, they can become enlarged and more noticeable over time. Pollutants left on the skin can also generate free radicals that contribute to premature aging.
“Really, the only benefit might be less disruption to the skin barrier, but you can get that by using a gentle cleanser instead,” Berry adds.
A dermatologist-approved method for keeping skin clear
A balanced approach that involves gentle cleansing and listening to your skin’s needs will lead to healthy skin in the long run, Golbari says.
She recommends testing new products on a small area of the skin before applying them to your whole face to check for sensitivity. Regularly clean your makeup brushes and sponges with a gentle cleanser or mild soap to prevent the buildup of bacteria.
She also recommends using a mild face wash that is appropriate for your skin type and looking for terms like “gentle,” “pH-balanced,” “fragrance-free,” and “non-comedogenic”.
And remember that “skin health often comes from the inside out,” she adds—so staying well hydrated and eating plenty of fruits and vegetables can help you maintain a healthy glow.
What won’t work is doing nothing.“For the vast majority of people, completely abandoning skin cleansing, particularly cleansing the face, will lead to premature aging, clogged pores, skin dullness and breakouts,” Golbari says.
The post What Happens If You Don’t Wash Your Face? appeared first on TIME.
