Wherever the cook extraordinaire Yewande Komolafe goes, I will absolutely follow — even if it’s to boneless, skinless chicken breasts. Normally I’d prefer literally any other part of the bird (thigh, drumstick, wing, neck, liver, giblets, tail or feet), but I know from experience that Yewande works magic with everything she touches. And that includes the meek and mild chicken breast.
I’m thinking of her ginger chicken with crisp napa salad, where she pounds chicken breasts until thin, so they have more surface area to absorb the assertive seasoning mix of grated fresh ginger, cilantro, lime zest and a not insubstantial amount of cayenne (Yewande doesn’t play when it comes to chile). After a quick sauté, she finishes her chicken with a ruffly napa cabbage salad, brightened with fresh mint and chives. Who knew white meat could party this hard?
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Ginger Chicken With Crisp Napa Salad
Now that Yewande’s recipe has used half of our head of cabbage, what shall we do with the other half? Enter Ali Slagle and her bubble and squeak. A combination of bacon, leftover mashed potatoes and vegetables (usually cabbage), this traditional British recipe is named for its sizzling, popping cooking noises, as the moisture evaporates noisily from the pan. The key here is to cook the mixture until the bottom and edges get brown and crisp, adding texture to the silky vegetables. Vegetarians can omit the bacon, and anyone who loves an egg can slide a poached or fried one right on top. The runny yolk makes this classic dish even better.
Perhaps you’re in the mood for a garlicky, lemony shrimp scampi? Lidey Heuck reconfigures the scampi ingredients in her 25-minute spaghetti al limone with shrimp. The surprising note here is tarragon, which gives the dish a snappy licorice freshness that’s unexpected and exactly on target.
Another one of my favorite tarragon pairings is asparagus, and I always add some to my lemony asparagus salad with shaved cheese and nuts. But if that herb’s anise notes aren’t your thing, then basil, dill or parsley will work equally well in this lively, multi-textured dish.
Another fantastic use for your asparagus is Priya Krishna’s vegetable pulao. This adaptable recipe will work with whatever vegetables you crave or have on hand. Priya richly seasons them with ghee-toasted spices before adding the basmati rice to the pot. Serve the cozy meal with yogurt and maybe some Indian pickle on the side, and then be sure to stash any leftovers in the fridge for a fragrant lunch the next day.
For dessert, you can whip up Nik Sharma’s tangy-sweet no-bake mango cheesecake this afternoon — it uses canned mango and takes only 45 minutes of prep time. And if you’re observing Passover, or just want to save a few minutes, you can skip the crust. The custardy cream cheese filling with its golden crown of syrupy fruit is great solo.
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That’s all for now. I’m going away (I know, again) for a few days. But I’ll see you when I’m back.
Melissa Clark has been writing her column, A Good Appetite, for The Times’s Food section since 2007. She creates recipes for New York Times Cooking, makes videos and reports on food trends. She is the author of 45 cookbooks, and counting.
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