A decade ago, many travelers considered Japan too expensive for a vacation. What a difference a weak yen has made — suddenly, it seems like everybody is here.
Numbers from the Japan National Tourism Organization support that feeling: The country had a record-breaking 36.9 million international visitors in 2024, a 47 percent increase from the previous year.
But a lot of tourists stick to the well-trodden path of Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka. And while it is hard to blame anyone for wanting to see the neon lights of Tokyo’s Shinjuku neighborhood or the Arashiyama bamboo forest in Kyoto, they do miss out on other (perhaps even better) locations.
Andrew Faulk, a Tokyo resident, has been a freelance photographer here for 10 years, often working for The New York Times. “Traveling beyond the typical hot spots,” he said, “allows visitors to experience Japan’s true spirit — its culture, landscapes and unique traditions.”
So here are some of his recommendations, accompanied by photographs he has taken over the years:
Yokohama
Yokohama is just another big city, like Tokyo — right?
Actually Japan’s second most populous city has a few distinctions of its own: As one of the country’s first ports to open to foreign trade in the 1800s, it has retained an international flair. And it boasts a vibrant Chinatown neighborhood.
Yet “unlike the fast-paced hustle and packed streets of Tokyo,” Faulk says, “Yokohama feels more relaxed.” He particularly recommends visiting Yamashita Park, to watch ships passing the Yokohama Bay Bridge, and strolling through the crowded back streets of the Noge district, which is filled with small bars, cafes and jazz clubs.
Yamaguchi
For anyone craving Kyoto’s traditional vibes, Yamaguchi exudes a similar atmosphere, but without the crowds.
The city, at the western tip of Japan’s main island of Honshu, packs a lot of historical sights, including the Hagi Castle Town, a district with preserved samurai houses and walled roads. It is no surprise that the city showed up in The Times’ 52 Places to Go To in 2024.
Faulk recommends the Sesshu Garden at Jyoei Temple: “The carefully placed rocks, flowing water and meticulously trimmed trees all come together to create a centralized harmony.”
Yamanaka Onsen
Nestled in the mountains of the Kaga region on Honshu, Yamanaka Onsen is a small town with a thousand years of history, particularly linked to the art of geisha and lacquerware.
“Although it can still feel a bit touristy, Yamanaka Onsen is a hot-spring town that offers a balance of relaxation and traditional culture,” Faulk says.
He particularly enjoys the trails in the Kakusenkei Gorge, saying that the winding paths feel like something out of a Studio Ghibli film: “The air is refreshing, filled with the scent of pine.”
Fukuoka
There is a lot to love about Fukuoka, on the northern shore of Kyushu island: For one, the yatai, or open-air food stalls that at night serve bowls of the Hakata ramen (thin noodles in a soup made from pork bones) or skewers of grilled chicken.
Faulk’s choice is that local ramen: “The thin, straight noodles complement the creamy tonkotsu broth beautifully. They offer a satisfying chew that pair nicely with each slurp.”
Koyasan
Koyasan, a two-hour drive south of Osaka, is synonymous with temple stays because the Buddhist monks who live in its more than 100 monasteries welcome visitors.
“Koyasan offers a serenity that stands in extreme contrast to metropolitan Japan,” Faulk says.
He recommends visiting the Okunoin Temple cemetery, and walking the stone path flanked by tall cedars. Its graves, blanketed with moss and roots, are reminders of the area’s spiritual significance, he says — especially the mausoleum of Kobo Daishi, an eighth century monk also known as Kukai, who was a poet, calligrapher and the founder of a Buddhist sect.
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