Opening
Huset at Standard Space at the Standard, East Village
Maycoll Calderón, the chef and an owner of Huset Cocina de Campo, known for “field cooking” over wood fires for the past 10 years in the Roma Norte section of Mexico City, will be here for a two-month residence in the Standard, East Village. The space has housed other pop-ups. Mr. Calderón, who worked with Jean-Georges Vongerichten earlier in his career, plans to change the dinner menu daily and a New York crowd should feel at home with dishes like tuna tartare, shrimp ceviche, steak taco, roasted sea bass, arroz con pollo and pork Milanese with salad. (Wednesday)
25 Cooper Square (East Fifth Street), 212-475-5700, standardhotels.com.
Marbella Restaurant
The restaurateur Carmine Gualtieri’s taste of the Mediterranean has soft opened, with reservations required but walk-ins accepted after April 24, when the opening becomes official. Guests can savor the chef Tom Cava’s coastal menu of steamed mussels with chorizo, grilled octopus, tuna tartare and creamy pastas in a spacious waterfront setting.
23 Navy Pier Court, Stapleton Heights, Staten Island, 347-855-2400, marbellanyc.com.
Yamada
Partway down a gated alleyway is the entry to the chef Isao Yamada’s first solo effort (with Kooth Hospitality), a serene counter seating 10 and facing the chef and his acolytes at work. They slice with precision, sear over charcoal, deftly garnish and dab with sauces as they prepare Mr. Isao’s 10-course kaiseki ($300). The procession includes sakizuke (monkfish liver with shrimp), chawanmushi with crab, tsukuri (a sashimi assortment), sakura ebi (shrimp) with Nantucket bay scallop cake, seared goldeneye rockfish, a slice of Wagyu and, before the strawberry dessert, a donabe rice bowl with minuscule squid and salmon roe. Mr. Isao’s previous experience in Japan, and then at Brushstroke in New York, provided the warm-up. (Opens Wednesday)
16 Elizabeth Street (Canal Street), 646-429-8759, yamadanewyork.com.
Hakata TonTon at Cha Kee
Having closed the Midtown location of his hot pot spot, the chef Koji Hagihara needed a new location. Like a hermit crab he was welcomed by Baron Chan and Ophelia Wu into their Hong Kong style diner to do dinners of hot pots, soup dumplings and okonomiyaki. Cha Kee continues to do its usual menu for breakfast, lunch and tea.
43 Mott Street (Pell Street), 212-577-2888, chakeenyc.com.
Buba Bureka
With this new shop, Gadi Peleg, a founder of Breads Bakery, has a laser-focus on a single item: the bureka, a triangular pastry turnover made with savory and sweet fillings that’s popular throughout the Middle East. Potato with caramelized onions, corn with butter and salt, multiple cheeses or spinach-artichoke are some of the options. Mr. Peleg’s partners are the chef Ben Siman-Tov and Fritz Oleshansky, who worked at Breads Bakery. The burekas are sold with tahini, pickles and a jammy egg, $16. (Thursday)
193 Bleecker Street (MacDougal Street), 212-951-0817, bubabureka.com.
Branches
The Gyro Project
Greek street food, notably gyro meat piled into a pita with tomatoes, onions, sauces and topped with French fries, is the centerpiece of this growing chain. It started in Fort Lee, N.J., then opened in Newark, and now is set to take on Manhattan, first on the Upper West Side and by summer in Kips Bay. Greek appetizers, bowls, salads, and more elaborate whole rotisserie chickens, along with desserts, will be on the menu. There will be seating for 25. For the Manhattan restaurants, George Tenedios, who also has the Fresh&Co chain and the Mexican restaurant Nizuc, is in partnership with the Kyma restaurants. (Monday)
2062 Broadway (71st Street), thegyroproject.com.
Closing
Marlow & Sons
A neighborhood restaurant at the forefront of Williamsburg’s new wave some 20 years ago, is closing on Sunday. Its juxtaposition, a couple of blocks from the old guard Peter Luger Steak House, underscored its innovative importance. In a post on Instagram, Andrew Tarlow, the owner, attributed its demise to a “significant increase in our rent.” The restaurant took an uncommonly elastic approach, shifting the menu (The New York Times noted in 2006 how the menu “expanded, matured and improved”) in response to demand and to the talents of the various chefs in charge. Mr. Tarlow is returning the space to the landlord. He confirmed that Diner and the butcher shop, Marlow & Daughters, remain open.
81 Broadway (Berry Street), Williamsburg, Brooklyn, 718-384-1441, @marlowandsons.
Sushi Ichimura
Like Masayoshi Takayama of Masa, Eiji Ichimura is another Japanese chef who has been at the forefront of New York’s high-end sushi counter culture for decades. He’s 71 and is closing the restaurant in mid-August. He started with a spot in Midtown but first attracted attention at David Bouley’s Brushstroke, and since 2023 at his latest TriBeCa location, backed by Kuma Hospitality, the owners of l’Abeille nearby.
412 Greenwich Street (Laight Street), 212-542-3896, sushiichimura.nyc.
Chefs on the Move
Alex Guarnaschelli
It’s been less than two years since the restaurant at the New York Historical on Central Park West and 77th Street was transformed from Storico to Clara, named for Clara Driscoll, who was in charge of the women’s glass-cutting department at Tiffany Studios. The Oberon Group from Brooklyn was running it, but Great Performances, which took over operations, has brought in the marquee chef and author Alex Guarnaschelli to be in charge. “It’s a great opportunity to do American food,” she said. “A chopped salad, artichoke hearts, cheeseburger, fluke Milanese, Parker House rolls and American desserts like Lady Baltimore cake and New York cheesecake.” She has softened the soaring space with curtains and tablecloths.
Hailey Nissimov
Fresh from a stint in the kitchen at Eyal Shani’s Shmoné, Ms. Nissimov is now the executive chef at Figaro Cafe, a Greenwich Village stalwart that sustained the Beat Generation, closed in 2008 and reopened in 2022 with a look that’s more Bergdorf than Beatnik. She’s introducing a contemporary menu with an updated tuna melt, Wagyu skewers and a lion’s mane mushroom steak.
Looking Ahead
A ‘Splendid’ Auction
Lynne Rossetto Kasper, an Italian cooking expert and the co-creator of the “Splendid Table” on NPR, is selling some of her possessions, including her professional archive, cookbook library, dinnerware, cooking tools and some of her art collection at auction. She is now 82. The live auction by Revere Auctions in St. Paul, Minn., will be April 16 with the catalog available now for bids.
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Florence Fabricant is a food and wine writer. She writes the weekly Front Burner and Off the Menu columns, as well as the Pairings column, which appears alongside the monthly wine reviews. She has also written 12 cookbooks. More about Florence Fabricant
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